Malabaristo

Yes, in the case of the Technobeam the board gets something like 36VAC and 9VAC that are converted to ~24VDC motor power and 5VDC logic power respectively. The 7R power supply does have multiple voltage outputs that are similar and could probably be adapted, but you would have to know and understand the design of your fixture to figure all that out. For lamp strike, 3 of the five pins are: common, lamp on, & lamp off, and it looks like the on/off signals are held one way or the other to change state. The other two pins are (presumably) lamp status from the driver to the controller. On the Technobeam the lamp strike circuit has one pin that pulses for lamp-on and another that pulses for lamp-off. The adaptive circuit I mentioned would have to watch for those pulses and provide the corresponding signal to the 7R driver board. You'd also need to look at how your fixture checks lamp status and inject that signal based on the output from the driver to avoid lamp error messages Like I said: not a beginner project (and not one I'm going to pursue any further). So, yeah. If you do all that, then (at least for the Technobeam) you'd be able to eliminate the igniter & capacitor, the ballast transformer, and the complicated multi-tap transformer that provides power to the motors and controls. Fitting the differently shaped 7R driver and power supply might be tricky depending on the fixture you're using... Anyway, that's all probably possible--not cost-effective in my opinion, but possible. Fixing the optical issues, however, isn't possible without basically starting over from scratch. You would need different lenses, possibly different spacing between components, different gobos, and so on. If your goal is to learn some new things and you have the time and money to spare, then it might be worth it to you. If your goal is more about making usable fixtures, then this isn't a worthwhile approach.

I had this same thought and stumbled across your post while searching for info on how the driver and power supplies for these lamps worked. What I eventually did was buy one of the cheap Sharpy clones that use the 7R lamp to eliminate some of the guess work on how to make the individual pieces operate. There's another project I've been considering that would use the whole, intact fixture, so it seemed like a reasonable investment at the time... Anyway, I only did a quick check of the signals between the main control card and the driver, but it does appear to basically just be two opto-isolated inputs for lamp-on & lamp-off, and one output for lamp status. If you have or can get schematics for the main board in whatever fixtures you're planning to use, then it should be possible to design a relatively simple circuit to interface with the driver. If you don't already know how to read and understand the schematic for something as complex as the control card of a moving light, then you may need to enlist the help of someone with more electronics knowledge. It's definitely not a beginner project. I didn't spend a lot of time on the electronics because I was more interested in testing the optics of sticking that lamp in an older MSD250 fixture--in my case a Technobeam. Since I have working lamps/ballasts/igniters in the fixtures currently, the project would only be worthwhile to me if I was able to get more output than the original. That's theoretically possible because only about a quarter of the lamp lumens actually make it out the front of the fixture due to inefficiency of the original optical design. No shade on the designers--they actually did pretty well with the technology they had at the time... At first glance the results did seem pretty promising, but I eventually realized that it was mostly because the beam was really uneven. Some parts of it were definitely brighter than a stock fixture, but the average brightness was roughly the same (based on measurements with a phone app rather than any sort of real tool). While the 7R lamp and its prefocus reflector are more efficient, unfortunately their optical characteristics just aren't a good match for the rest of the optics in the fixture. One obvious tell is that the gate and gobos in the Sharpy clone are much smaller than the Technobeam, so the result shouldn't have really been that surprising. So... at that point I decided it probably wasn't going to be worth the time and money to move forward with this. I was looking at about $100/fixture just for the cheapest power supply, driver, and lamp combination I could find. Add on some additional fans, electronics, metal work, and a whole lot of design & fabrication time, and the cost just wasn't worth the result of something roughly equal to (but less even than) the original. TLDR: yes, this is theoretically possible, but the optics will probably not be great, and it's pretty complicated to make work.