can I activate antari z1200 without the control ?

[wolf1976]

hi I wanted to ask is possible to activate the antari z 1200 without the control z8 ?

by using a simple switch for example  

Edited August 13 by wolf1976

[sunray]

3 hours ago, wolf1976 said:

hi I wanted to ask is possible to activate the antari z 1200 without the control z8 ?

by using a simple switch for example  

I think there are multiple versions of these, IIRC one type has a jack socket which only works as a positive 0-10V signal, I imagine there is a 10V coming out to be able to simply use a pot as a potential divider, another version has an XLR which one combination of pins linked will give full power smoke but these are too far back to have a working memory of.

[sunray]

2 minutes ago, sunray said:

I think there are multiple versions of these, IIRC one type has a jack socket which only works as a positive 0-10V signal, I imagine there is a 10V coming out to be able to simply use a pot as a potential divider, another version has an XLR which one combination of pins linked will give full power smoke but these are too far back to have a working memory of.

IIRC there is confusion with connectors between the different versions like 3 or 5 pin for DMX and the other for the remote control which was why I got involved fiddling, but as I said the details have gone.

[wolf1976]

in my case has 4 pin 

and the colours are red black green and yellow

general how its work this devise must you wait until arrived in the appropriate temperature and after press start to start the pump with the liquid ?

I mean it has something like insurance if it does not reach temperature the pump does not get and liquid circulates or regardless of temperature the pump takes  

thanks on advance 

[sunray]

8 hours ago, wolf1976 said:

in my case has 4 pin 

and the colours are red black green and yellow

general how its work this devise must you wait until arrived in the appropriate temperature and after press start to start the pump with the liquid ?

I mean it has something like insurance if it does not reach temperature the pump does not get and liquid circulates or regardless of temperature the pump takes  

thanks on advance 

Now the 2 certainties I recall in the cut off cable are red for permanent DC and white for 0V but didn't use white at all. My gut feeling; there must have been a 'Heating' or 'Ready' signal either in the connector or within the control inside the smoker.

Doesn't take too long in google to find this

Looks to me it's a question of linking yellow and green then to red to 'go'. I didn'y have the luxury of this when I found myself having to 'make it work... now' during a show.

The first Antari I had to frig had the jack socket forthe remote which was more like a single pot to generate the 0-10V but what we really wanted was to trigger it from the same switch operating LEDs from a 12V battery on a prop so all I had to do was run the 12V straight into the smoker via a current limiting resistor.

[wolf1976]

thanks for the reply sir I had find this schematic 

I did bridge between red and black and I listen to take command a relay from three total that the pcb has and its stop to heat the resistance cut the 220 volt ac and the stabilizer on 12 volt dc its very hot 

so I am thinking now to follow the plan and connect a led with the resistance 220 ohm normal when the temperature arrive in the appropriate value it will light and after must have bridge between red and green or between red and yellow to start the pump 

do you agree with this ?

[sunray]

I see the "Green momentary Manual" button linking red to yellowand via D5 to green.

 

I don't recall what my solution was but my guess is I connected green and yellow to one side of a contact and red to the other

 

However I didn't have the benefit of the drawing so it may have just been the green and not the yellow.

 

Also bear in mind you mentioned your machine has a 4 pole connector and the drawing we're working from shows 5 poles so there is a possibility we are making errors.

 

[wolf1976]

thanks  for the help sir 

but for achieve to start the pump must first light the green led and after use the contact that connect the yellow and the green wire right ? 

or it doesnt matter if the green led is lilght ?

[partyanimallighting]

I do have some pictures of a Z-1200 II remote that might help. I can't recall but it seems there are 4 wires in the harness, RED, GREEN, YELLOW and WHITE. I'm following this post because I would like to be able to wire these types of machines to a simple momentary switch via the remote control input, be it 4 or 5 pin.

[sunray]

Well that's interesting, I've done a little reverse engineering from the board photos and see a discrepency as "D3" legend appears twice and the diode between 'duration' & 'interval' pots should be D5 as shown red 

I haven't looked at every detail but all I've checked otherwise agrees between the drawing and the board apart from the wiring colours, the drawing shows five wires but the board has four connected:    Showing my predicted colours and function

 

So I've transferred those colours to the drawing:

 

Working forwards from there it seems the only way the Z8 controls the smoker is the variable voltage  on the white wire (originally green on drawing) and my original botch can only have been to link +5V to control wire (Red and green on the damaged cable I had) (Green and white on cable in photos).Shown here as a orange link

There was mention early on about needing the ready signal to make if smoke, The Z8 ignores the ready so any interaction is done within the main unit.

 

Now I'll offer a warning, in the photos it's apparent the 4 core cable has been reterminated, I wonder if these are the original colours used on the board.

[partyanimallighting]

5 hours ago, sunray said:

Well that's interesting, I've done a little reverse engineering from the board photos and see a discrepency as "D3" legend appears twice and the diode between 'duration' & 'interval' pots should be D5 as shown red 

I haven't looked at every detail but all I've checked otherwise agrees between the drawing and the board apart from the wiring colours, the drawing shows five wires but the board has four connected:    Showing my predicted colours and function

 

So I've transferred those colours to the drawing:

 

Working forwards from there it seems the only way the Z8 controls the smoker is the variable voltage  on the white wire (originally green on drawing) and my original botch can only have been to link +5V to control wire (Red and green on the damaged cable I had) (Green and white on cable in photos).Shown here as a orange link

There was mention early on about needing the ready signal to make if smoke, The Z8 ignores the ready so any interaction is done within the main unit.

 

Now I'll offer a warning, in the photos it's apparent the 4 core cable has been reterminated, I wonder if these are the original colours used on the board.

Hi sunray, I'm glad the pictures helped and I can use your diagram and instructions to rewire other 5 pin machines that I have with lost/displaced remotes. I have small plastic project boxes, momentary switches and lengths of 5 wire cable in stock and ready to be assembled as replacement remotes. It's hopefully just a matter of checking which wire feeds 5VDC to the remote and which is triggered by the momentary GREEN switch to power the pump. In my picture, if the wires were reterminated, it's probably because there was a short there (probably years ago) that I repaired by cutting and shortening the cable. The harness wires normally break at or inside the tensioner on the remote and also inside the 5 pin XLR connector that connects to the back of the unit from normal wear and tear. I promise you, my soldering has gotten a lot better over the years. Most of these remotes are 5 wire but these Antari are 4 pin (with a 5 pin XLR connector). I do have a couple Chauvet Haze machine remotes that will not work on their regular Hurricane fog machine models so I'll use your instructions to see if I can modify them to work. If my attempts fail, getting them to work may be my next forum post.

[partyanimallighting]

On further checking it seems that I was wrong and it's a 4 pin XLR connector (not 5 pin) based on these pictures I found (dated 2015) and the shield wire is connected to the ground on the jack. I'll go to the warehouse and take some clearer pictures of the remote at (XLR) input and (remote PCB) output. I may also have a mainboard lying around here somewhere so I can take pictures of that also and post it here for reference.

 

[partyanimallighting]

I found what I believe to be a mainboard for a Z-1200 II. wolf1976 can confirm from his unit. I have replacement boards for the Antari models that I have in rental stock, namely the Z-1200 II and the M-5. The circuitry on the M-5 is markedly different as it carries a large remote with an LCD display where timer output can bet set to increments of seconds from what I recall.

[wolf1976]

no its not the same pcb 

in my case is 

4 hours ago, partyanimallighting said:

I found what I believe to be a mainboard for a Z-1200 II. wolf1976 can confirm from his unit. I have replacement boards for the Antari models that I have in rental stock, namely the Z-1200 II and the M-5. The circuitry on the M-5 is markedly different as it carries a large remote with an LCD display where timer output can bet set to increments of seconds from what I recall.

 

 

[wolf1976]

sorry is b06523v3