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Mounting JBL Control 1 Pro's


sleah

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I'd like to mount some JBL Control 1 Pro's on lighting bars. They'd be more or less straight down, maybe 20/30 degrees from vertical (or would that be from horizontal? ** laughs out loud ** From straight down anyways!)

I suppose the obvious thing is to mount a G clamp or half couple direct to the threaded hole on the back of the speaker with appropriate washers/sleeves to allow for the larger hole as I thinks it's only an m6 threaded hole.

Just wondered if anyone else has mounted Control 1's to bars and how?

Edited by sleah
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There is a JBL Control 1 clamp whch is designed to bolt the speaker to a wall. It can be adjusted for the angle of dangle. You would need to fix the wall mount part of the clamp to the LX bar with G clamps or some such. Google 'JBL Control 1 clamp'.

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We have some of the brackets that clamp around the speaker that have an M10 thread in. We also sometimes use the threaded insert on the back, usually with a doughty supaclamp. 

The threaded insert on the back is camera thread - 1/4-20 UNC. We do a doughty supaclamp to mic thread (3/8 BSW), then a mic ball joint with a camera thread adapter on. Gives you lots of flexibility on mounting and pointing.

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2 minutes ago, GR1 said:

There is a JBL Control 1 clamp whch is designed to bolt the speaker to a wall. It can be adjusted for the angle of dangle. You would need to fix the wall mount part of the clamp to the LX bar with G clamps or some such. Google 'JBL Control 1 clamp'.

Is that the plastic ball joint one? I've never got on with them, I find they droop over time (look at how many installed ones have the bottom edge of the speaker touching the wall...), I've had the locking ring crack before it's stopped the speaker drooping, and recently had one where the threaded rod in the ball jammed itself so well in to the speaker that getting it out necessitated dismantling the ball joint and grabbing the ball with mulgrips.

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I've got the brackets but tend to think it's easier to adapt out of the threaded hole than adapt the bracket. Being plastic I wouldn't like to try u-bolts on to some m10 studding which could otherwise be a neat solution. Making an adaptor bracket to attach to the 4 mounting holes could be an option I suppose. Or, maybe get a steel plate made the same size as the wall bracket and then use u-bolts or have a short m10 bolt welded to said plate? Hmm..

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Our solution repairing a system:

Or iginal job for C1s suspended under truss was a 3mm flat plate fixed to both bottom tubes with one exhaust clamp each end under that was one of their stupid ball fittings. Total of about 10 speakers. I agree the ball system is unreliable and quite frankly unfit for purpose. One speaker had fallen completely, some hanging on the signal wires but I think it's fair to say that none still secure.

Materials already in place:

Speaker, plate 100mm wide, 2 exhaust clamps, 4 screws to go into speaker.

In the plate; We drilled 4 holes spaced to match the speaker, and 4 holes for both exhaust clamps. Made a set in the plate, in our case 90' to line up with edge of speaker. Clamped to truss with 2 clamps.

We didn't forget to add safety wires.

Speakers pointing straight down about 70mm below tube.

 

Edit:. Just realised the JBL has the single hole for the ball mounting and indeed we did use that for the repair.

 

Based on that we did a similar installation with some CPC speakers with the 4 screw format.

 

 .

Edited by sunray
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The part you need for suspending control 1’s is the K&M 19688.  Canford link below.

https://www.canford.co.uk/Products/53-3703_K&M-19688-JBL-CONTROL-1-LOUDSPEAKER-MOUNT-For-microphone-stands-black

 

whilst the thread is 3/8” BSW mic thread, they can easily be tapped out to M10 (as we have done with many of ours).  We’ve then added a small keyring through the safety point on the rear of the speaker to attatch a steel wire safety to.

 

neil

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23 hours ago, neilalexrose said:

The part you need for suspending control 1’s is the K&M 19688.  Canford link below.

https://www.canford.co.uk/Products/53-3703_K&M-19688-JBL-CONTROL-1-LOUDSPEAKER-MOUNT-For-microphone-stands-black

 

whilst the thread is 3/8” BSW mic thread, they can easily be tapped out to M10 (as we have done with many of ours).  We’ve then added a small keyring through the safety point on the rear of the speaker to attatch a steel wire safety to.

 

neil

I take it you haven't had any of the slots tearing out yet.

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm probably going to go for the simple option of bolting a G-clamp straight to the captive nut. I did a quick trial at ground level and it'll be fine for what I need. Plus a safety wire of course!

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