Stuart91 Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 I'm beginning to get a bit aggravated by some of our small sub-multis, and quite fancy making a project of replacing them. It's hard to justify spending huge amounts getting something custom built for me, but it'll be a good "soldering in front of the telly" job that I can tackle at my leisure. Because the sub-multis get squeezed into spare space in trunks and crates, I'm keen to keep them as compact as possible, therefore thin cable, and compact stage boxes. Our of our existing mixture of boxes, the best performing have been these: Which is simply a die-cast box from Maplin with holes cut in it. The one in the photo has been out at least once a week for almost 15yrs and is still perfect. The nice thing is that it is really compact, with no wasted space around the connectors. The only off-the-shelf arrangement that I've been able to find recently is this, using Penn faceplates and a standard backbox: The problem with it is that the faceplate extends beyond the backbox, and when this edge gets knocked, it pulls the flanges with the screw thread off the backbox. When this happens, the only remedy is a new backbox, and resoldering the entire box to allow it to be swapped. I'm looking for boxes that are either 8 or 12 way, quite happy to buy them unloaded and add the XLR sockets myself. Needs to be repairable, so a metal box with a gland and solderable XLRs is the best plan. And as small as is possible. Anybody got any favourites or suggestions?
bruce Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 Have you looked at the Neutrik 8/12 way ones? Can’t say I’ve ever used one, but the brochure looks OK... https://www.canford.co.uk/Products/20258/49-804_NEUTRIK-STAGEBOX-NSB1B-8-0 8-way in that photo, there’s a 12-way in the same form factor with a row on the top. IDC connectors rather than solder tho. and the more expensive range: https://www.canford.co.uk/Index/Stage-boxes/NEUTRIK-MODULAR-STAGEBOXES Pretty sure Adam Hall do something similar. Another though - the second option you showed, with the Penn faceplate - I guess it’s OK, but fragile cos the plate overhangs the backbox. Could you attack it with an angle grinder to make the plate flush with the box, then maybe dip it in something like plasti-dip to protect it and tidy it up a bit? Or epoxy a shim to the outside edge of the backbox to make sure there was no overhang? Still doesn’t get round the problem that it’s really an install plate, not touring, and only held in place by 2 small bolts
Stuart91 Posted October 9, 2017 Author Posted October 9, 2017 Thanks, Bruce. I've seen the cheaper Neutrik boxes before, and we have replaced at least one that's been broken in an installation. I'm not convinced they'd hold up to the sort of abuse we'd give them, although it might be worth a second look. The more expensive range would be hard to justify, although they do look nice. With the Penn faceplates, the weak point is the thread on the backbox. I'm wondering if a different design of box would either eliminate the overhang, or provide a more solid fixing for the bolts. On the ones that I am using at the moment, the bolts fix into a flange that is pressed into the side of the box - that's the weak point that goes. And since the only repair is a complete new backbox, the cable needs resoldered.
bruce Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 If the die cast box works for you, then why not stick with that style?
Stuart91 Posted October 9, 2017 Author Posted October 9, 2017 If the die cast box works for you, then why not stick with that style? I'd rather buy something off-the-peg to avoid the metalworking, which I'm relatively poor at. Plus it means that the end product looks less home-made, which is a bit of a consideration when one will usually be sitting downstage centre at the artist's feet...
bruce Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 just spray it matt black, and put a suitable subtle logo on it..... :-)
James Remo Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 http://whirlwindusa.com/catalog/snakes-splitters-and-multiwiring-systems/snakes/mini-6
Don Allen Posted October 10, 2017 Posted October 10, 2017 Do you use Step Drills when doing metalwork. They come in many shapes and sizes, but are good at making a neat, circular hole, without the drill moving off centre. I bought one large enough for chassis mount circular power outlets. The link is just to show you what they look like.
Andrew C Posted October 10, 2017 Posted October 10, 2017 The only off-the-shelf arrangement that I've been able to find recently is this, using Penn faceplates and a standard backbox: The problem with it is that the faceplate extends beyond the backbox, and when this edge gets knocked, it pulls the flanges with the screw thread off the backbox. When this happens, the only remedy is a new backbox, and resoldering the entire box to allow it to be swapped. You could put an mdf or similar sleeve around the back box to bring it out to the extent of the faceplate. A bit of filler and paint, and it would look proper.
AndyJones Posted October 10, 2017 Posted October 10, 2017 Can you make anything out of this lot? http://www.terralec.co.uk/hardware__accessories/modular_box/11437_0c.html
jonathanhill Posted October 10, 2017 Posted October 10, 2017 Stage Electrics used to make powder-coated steel back boxes with standard fixing centres for 1 and 2 gang faceplates, but I cannot find them on their website. I have used them to make custom facility panels with off-the-shelf punched faceplates from Penn-Elcom, but you could make them into compact stage boxes which won't suffer the same overhang issues as a standard back box. That is if you can find the product. I will have a look through my orders to get a code when I get back to work tomorrow.
timsabre Posted October 10, 2017 Posted October 10, 2017 Thomann do these trapezoidal ones which are quite compact and pretty, Neutrik so expensive at £50 though. Rapid sell them too.https://www.thomann.de/gb/neutrik_nsb_84_stagebox_8_in_4.htm or more cheaply (£23) a nice box with 8 XLR holeshttps://www.thomann.de/gb/cae_stagebox_8.htm
MarkPAman Posted October 10, 2017 Posted October 10, 2017 I've no idea how strong this Thomann Pro Snake Box is, but it looks like it may do the job. Can I also recommend that you get these , some 3mm bolts and mount the sockets behind the plate. Looks much nicer than rivets IMO and far easier than fiddling about with nuts. E2A - HA beaten to it! That's what happens when you get called to sort out a problem, half way through posting!
timsabre Posted October 10, 2017 Posted October 10, 2017 Can I also recommend that you get these , some 3mm bolts and mount the sockets behind the plate. Looks much nicer than rivets IMO and far easier than fiddling about with nuts. Those are a cool idea, never seen them before
Simon Lewis Posted October 10, 2017 Posted October 10, 2017 Or you buy the Neutrik XLR panel connectors with threaded holes... or you buy an M3 nut runner and use M3 Nylocks
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