New build connector type

[sleah]

We are building a new school (I've mentioned in in another thread) and I'm spec'ing the theatre/AV installs.

 

Looking at four main spaces, a large multi-use conference hall where large productions will be staged, a drama studio, a music performance studio and a multi-use assembly hall.

 

My current plan is that the assembly hall and music room will be LED only so will have no facility for dimming and will be cabled for switched, hard power.

The drama studio will be mixed LED and generics so will be cabled accordingly. The conference hall I'm thinking ought to have some dimming capability for when we stage large productions and need additional lighting which can be brought from the drama studio. Other events will be served by a fixed LED rig.

 

This brings me on to which connector is best on the IWB's.

I really want to avoid mixing connectors if I can. Current thought is to go 16A on everything. 15A seems a bit dated for a new build..

My other thought, but I don't know if it's 'done' or is common practice, is to go powercon. New LED kit is mostly powercon, connectors are easy to fit, they are less bulky than 16A and easy to connect/disconnect with one hand, so there is a good argument for it.

 

Where there will be mixed dimming/hard power each channel will be selectable as dimmed or switched, so any given socket on an IWB could be either. This gives maximum flexibility and full use of channel count, regardless of fixture type.

 

I'd be interested in people's thoughts and what you would do.

[timsabre]

If you have control over what happens and so can ensure people don't plug things into dimmed channels that shouldn't be, I'd go 16 throughout and have some sort of patch system at the other end to choose hard power/dim.

 

If people will be messing with it when you aren't there I would have 2 different connectors to prevent trouble.

 

Most new fixtures are now using Powercon True 1 (the yellow ones) rather than the old-style blue powercon. Who knows if this will continue... it's not enough of an established standard to put on an install in my opinion.

[kgallen]

Where you have dimmers, will they be the type which can switch between dimmer and hard power modes (like Zero88 Chilli Pro or whatever the ETC equivalent is)? This would influence whether you can have a different connector type for dimmed versus hard power.

[sleah]

Where you have dimmers, will they be the type which can switch between dimmer and hard power modes (like Zero88 Chilli Pro or whatever the ETC equivalent is)? This would influence whether you can have a different connector type for dimmed versus hard power.

 

Yes that's right, they will be the selectable type. Hence same connector for both.

[kgallen]

Sorry Simon, re-reading you did say that in your original post. Doh. http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif

[agermich]

We have recently gone through a big refurb and have stuck with 15a for everything, although we are in a slightly different position in that we already owned a lot of 15a trs and soca. All the new dimmers are ETC colorSource, so we just switch over to relay mode for plugging in LEDs and Movers. It's really handy to have everything on the same connector and not have to run in separate cabling for hard power.

[haymere]

I would definitely go 16a. As others have said the powercon/truecon argument isnt settled and you may want to hire in kit too

[Shez]

Is there any argument that in a school environment, shuttered outlets would be preferable i.e. 15A better than 16A?

[Brian]

...go powercon...

 

An installation using Powercon will, or at the very least ought to, fail 7671. From the Neutrik website...

 

Attention: The powerCON is a connector without breaking capacity, i.e. the powerCON should not be connected or disconnected under load or live!

 

As such, they must not be used where there is a chance that they will be disconnected under load.

[Stuart91]

Brian makes a good point, but it's also interesting to see how many manufacturers are ignoring Neutrik's advice. I've seen several items, from reputable manufacturers, which have "On/Off" labelled on the inlet, with a handy arrow showing the rotation. There's no other switch, and whilst the connection could be made before the supply is energised, in 99% of cases users won't bother.

 

I do wonder if this explains Neutrik's keenness to move over onto the Truecon,

[Jevans]

...go powercon...

 

An installation using Powercon will, or at the very least ought to, fail 7671. From the Neutrik website...

 

Attention: The powerCON is a connector without breaking capacity, i.e. the powerCON should not be connected or disconnected under load or live!

 

As such, they must not be used where there is a chance that they will be disconnected under load.

 

I'm not convinced that would make it enough to "fail" 7671. I think we've had this discussion before with regard to Socapex connectors; if you're being picky section 553 of 7671 excludes the usage of anything except standard 13A, BS546 round pins, and CEEforms. The exceptions given are I) electric clocks ii) shaver sockets and iii) "a circuit having special characteristics such that danger would otherwise arise or it is necessary to distinguish the function of the circuit."

 

I'm not certain that wanting to keep dimmed and hard power separate is a case for 'danger arising' - the danger is usually to the kit if mixed up, not the operator! Obviously then any 'odd' connectors we might want to put in exist under the second justification. Much as I agree that connectors with breaking capacity are a good idea, there's nothing in 7671 that I know of that specifically excludes ones that don't - though I'm happy to be corrected...

[david.elsbury]

Powercon True1 ( the orange ones) are rated for connection and disconnection under load

[timsabre]

Powercon True1 ( the orange ones) are rated for connection and disconnection under load

And you can connect them end to end which is an extra bonus. But they are only found on the newest kit at the moment.

[Jivemaster]

Do you ever receive travelling shows? Despite liking all LED not all touring one night shows will be ready to re plot to your rig. Maybe you need a 63/3 somewhere.

[J Pearce]

I've just been fitting up LX in the new building for the (newly) Royal Birmingham Conservatoire. We're all 16A for lighting across all the concert halls, with bypass switched dimmers that will likely spend most of their lives as distro, as the recording bods have developed a hatred of tungsten lamps.

I'm still a bit concerned that someone will plug a rather pricey LED S4 into an outlet configured as a dimmer, and need to work out how best we mitigate against that, as some spaces will likely have tungsten lamps visiting for operas and drama events. I think I'd rather have had the IWBs all hot power and just hung small dimmer packs where we need dimmed outlets - not a bad solution if you know you'll only have bits of dimmed kit rather than whole rigs.

One advantage of keeping to one connector for dimmed and hot is that your cable stock can be more flexible, as it fulfills more purposes. Needs disciple and care though!