jonathanhill Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Nylocs become a massive pain if you need to take the hook clamp off, whereas conventionals merely need loosening. Why on earth would you want to take the hook clamp off? There are good products out there manufactured so you don't have to take hook clamps off lights, as one of three things happen: The hook clamp gets lost The other bits get lost Captain Dimwit puts the hook clamp and other bits on wrong so that it won't move, moves too freely, falls apart or a combination of all three. I Nyloc the hook clamps on, as Mark does. It is the only way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbuckley Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Why on earth would you want to take the hook clamp off? Some of us have (some of) their lighting suspended from something else other than a bar. Yes, its a pain in the arse... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Why on earth would you want to take the hook clamp off? To use on a stand... or a boom arm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanhill Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Err... Doughty de-rigs for booms Doughty hook clamp bases for floor stuff Doughty hook clamp spigot adaptors for stands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Err... Doughty de-rigs for booms Doughty hook clamp bases for floor stuff Doughty hook clamp spigot adaptors for stands http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/shop/images/thumbs/t_t54175.jpg Did not know such a thing existed!! Bit of an ugly bodge though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanhill Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 I'm up for anything that means hook clamps don't have to be taken off. Even if it is ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.elsbury Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Jonathan. .. not sure what magical fantasy world you're in , but unfortunately in the real world that I work in it is impossible to avoid hookclamp removal. Prime example being bolting to an h stand or turtle. Hooking a hook clamp upside down to an h stand with scaff pipe just raises the c.o.g and makes it massively wobbly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csg Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 we go doughty trigger clamp ( I've removed all hook clamps from our inventory as I can't stand what they do to truss, particularly when people over / out-rig) - bolt, plain washer - lantern yoke - plain washer - nylock or aerotight nut. as the trigger clamps will grip the sides of a head head M12 or M10 bolt, you only need one spanner to remove the nylock, and by holding the spanner still and rotating the clamp this takes all of 10 seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanhill Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Jonathan. .. not sure what magical fantasy world you're in , but unfortunately in the real world that I work in it is impossible to avoid hookclamp removal. Prime example being bolting to an h stand or turtle. Hooking a hook clamp upside down to an h stand with scaff pipe just raises the c.o.g and makes it massively wobbly. That's why I specify the items I mentioned above. Doughty de-rigs rather that boom arms Doughty hook clamp bases rather than H-stands Doughty hook clamp spigot adaptors rather than just spigots I work in the real world, as a Production Electrician and as a Technical Manager. As the former, I specify the kit I need, as the latter I buy the kit I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_s Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 I'm with Jonathan on this, and I'm in the lucky position that I specify what I want and get it on a per-show basis. A standard nut really doesn't do the job as well as a nyloc - it will loosen over time with repetitive focusing. Using a spring washer and nyloc is a no-tool focus solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRW Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Jonathan. .. not sure what magical fantasy world you're in , but unfortunately in the real world that I work in it is impossible to avoid hookclamp removal. Prime example being bolting to an h stand or turtle. Hooking a hook clamp upside down to an h stand with scaff pipe just raises the c.o.g and makes it massively wobbly.That's why I specify the items I mentioned above.Doughty de-rigs rather that boom armsDoughty hook clamp bases rather than H-standsDoughty hook clamp spigot adaptors rather than just spigotsI work in the real world, as a Production Electrician and as a Technical Manager. As the former, I specify the kit I need, as the latter I buy the kit I need. Standard Boom Arm: £8.39Doughty Derig (250mm): £38.13 Doughty Hook Clamp Base: £37.10H-Stand made of 3"x1" offcuts: Practically free Doughty Hook Clamp Spigot Adaptor: £28.85Price of taking hook clamp off (and refitting afterwards): About 3 minutes of the technician's time, including scrabbling round for any bolts/clamp that have been lost stored in a safe place by another memeber of staff. Prices found on whichever website showed the product up first. Also, from what I can see, the latter two products are stated for use with Parcans, so what happens when you need a 2K on a floor stand?http://www.doughty-e...showprod_T54150http://www.doughty-e...showprod_T54175 Obviously wherever you work has deep pockets...! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.elsbury Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Have you actually seen a nyloc melt? what lamp was that on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alistermorton Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Nylocs are rated to about 140 celcius. While lantern parts can easily exceed that, I'm not sure that, in normal use, the clamp would. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanhill Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Standard Boom Arm: £8.39Doughty Derig (250mm): £38.13 Doughty Hook Clamp Base: £37.10H-Stand made of 3"x1" offcuts: Practically free Doughty Hook Clamp Spigot Adaptor: £28.85Price of taking hook clamp off (and refitting afterwards): About 3 minutes of the technician's time, including scrabbling round for any bolts/clamp that have been lost stored in a safe place by another memeber of staff. Prices found on whichever website showed the product up first. Also, from what I can see, the latter two products are stated for use with Parcans, so what happens when you need a 2K on a floor stand?http://www.doughty-e...showprod_T54150http://www.doughty-e...showprod_T54175 Obviously wherever you work has deep pockets...! I am not sure where you are getting your prices from, but I have never paid anything like them when I have bought these accessories. Admittedly, the hook clamp base and the spigot adaptor do mention PARs, however, I have used the hook clamp base with a 15/30 Source 4 with no problems with stability. I would have thought that directing expenditure that sped up get-ins, fit-ups and get-outs would be high on the priority list for any manager, it certainly has always been for me. Three minutes per hookclamp is fine if you only taking one off, but what happens when you have thirty lights to put on booms for the dance show that is coming in. That's an hour and a half wasted taking them off, with another hour and a half wasted putting them back on again. Personally I would rather have time for a cup of tea, than looking for the ###### washers that someone has 'helpfully' put away somewhere safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alistermorton Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 The base is specifically called a ParCan floor plate which kind of indicates what Doughty intend it to be used with, and the spigot adapter is specifically called a ParCan stand top, again strongly implying that it's not intended to be used for anything other than PAR cans, which are very light weight compared to say a large profile or a 2k fres. In the event of a mishap, would that be to your detriment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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