Brian Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 From what I've read the 700, and I assume the 1200, used a DC pump. The reason was when the user released the smoke button the pump went into reverse for a short while to suck excess fluid out of the heat exchanger prolonging life. Or so the theory went. Reading other forums would indicate that it didn't always work too well and the machine suffered from airlocks quite a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wentalong Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 does that 1500 look like the junior 700? if it does it's odd that they use a car washer pump for all the models in the range untill the 1500, especially considering the pumps only being given half its output (even though I got 15v on my meter) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Pearce Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 The 1500 is a big wide flat rectangle with rounded sides. Not a bad machine when it's working... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wentalong Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 yeahh I've heard loadsss about the 'smart' pump causing more trouble than good, however even still, I dont see how it can cause such a poor flow, I suppose it does kinda sound like its going forward and in reverse quickly with the fluid going back and forth in the pipes, I tried to run some thin wire through it and I managed to push it down past the first hole but couldnt get it much further than 3 inches from the novel and from the fluid input end, clogged up each end maybe? would blasting the thing with alot of preassure help? I'd imagine it'll withstand a decent amount with it being cast iron/whatever metal it is.... You'd be better off using a thin piece of wire to break up any blockages. A thin piece of copper wire works quite well as the tube through the heater probably bends back on itself so you'll need some wire that will follow these bends. If that doesn't work then the next thing to try is caustic soda. Obviously you should only use caustic soda when the block is cold, and be very careful about getting any on your skin or in your eyes. You'll need to let the soda sit for a while to do its work, and then you'll need to flush it out with plenty of cold water and then flush it out again just to make sure. Had a look for some caustic soda but how would I flush it through the system whilst it's cold? I dont mind running it through the heater whilst its hot aslong as it dont ruin the new pump I just brought :D im up for trying pretty much anything now, so throw all your funny and good suggestions at me ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 The poky wire thing will never work, there's too many bends inside it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wentalong Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 hmm I thought that'd be the case, I remeber seeing an image of an open heating element and although the picture wasnt too clear it looked quite complicated :D anyone got any good quality images of inside a heating element they csan post? just curious to know what I could be up against :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingatall666 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 You'd be better off using a thin piece of wire to break up any blockages. A thin piece of copper wire works quite well as the tube through the heater probably bends back on itself so you'll need some wire that will follow these bends. If that doesn't work then the next thing to try is caustic soda. Obviously you should only use caustic soda when the block is cold, and be very careful about getting any on your skin or in your eyes. You'll need to let the soda sit for a while to do its work, and then you'll need to flush it out with plenty of cold water and then flush it out again just to make sure.Had a look for some caustic soda but how would I flush it through the system whilst it's cold? I dont mind running it through the heater whilst its hot aslong as it dont ruin the new pump I just brought :D im up for trying pretty much anything now, so throw all your funny and good suggestions at me ;) with a little electrical knowledge you should be able to connect the pump directly (thus not needing to turn the thing on.). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigclive Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Have I led a sheltered life in the world of smoke machines? I've come across the solenoid pumps and peristaltic pumps in some FX machines, but never a centrifugal or "gear" type pump like a windscreen washer one is likely to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wentalong Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 ahh right, fair enough ** laughs out loud ** I wasn't sure if I was able to wash it through the pump with it being drain cleaner you see ;) and my technician at my dads club has like 35years experience and he couldnt believe it either :D but they really do use car waser pumps.... if http://www.nrgrecording.de/ was working you'd be able to see the pictures of another fogger so I can prove it :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wentalong Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 also, found a small hairline crack in the reservoir, which leaks 1 drop every 30 seconds to 1 minute, ill try and fix this but I dont see how it could case such a loss in power? it also seems asif the pumps going into reverse when it sounds like its going up and down in the video, could it be a capacitor supplying the power to the pump not being able to re-charge fast enough, or am I wrong? :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigclive Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 You could end up throwing so much time and money at this thing that it would be cheaper to buy a new machine. I don't think your pump is changing direction continually. It just sounds like it's thrashing air, which may mean the inlet pipe is picking up air somewhere along its length, or it may indeed be airlocked as someone else mentioned. If you're messing about with this machine powered up, then I strongly recommend the use of an RCD safety breaker if there's not one on that circuit already. Most smoke machines have some exposed live mains connections inside them when powered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerry davies Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Been watching this thread and enjoying it mightily but the short answer is that you have bought a decent doorstop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wentalong Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 Yeahh, there does seem to be alot of air in there for no reson, especially when I switch the pump off and a gush of bubbles come out into the fluid tank, this might be from the reverse on the pump pulling air in through the element unless they have a one way valve for some reason? and I am *kinda* carefull when poking about in there lool, the only real danger is the transformer which is tucked away and out of accidental touch when poking around with the PCB, as from the nrgrecording PDF's ive read before the site was shut off it said the whole board ran off 25 or 12v, unless its enough to kill you (probably is) anyway, I'll get to replacing the pipes after ive put the new blinds up :D ohh, and I guess I got another doorstop ;) my dad gave me a Chauvet hurrican F750 earlier which the motor seems to be dead on :D just managed to unblock the tubing that goes to the element but I haven't re-tried the motor yet..... ** laughs out loud ** im like.... such a tramp........ one mans junk.... is wentalongs treasure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timtheenchanteruk Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 get a small syringe, fill it with fog fluid, and push it through the pump (whislt the unit is on) this used to solve airlocks in the martin junior temporarily. There is a mod you can do to the main PCB (providing its the same as the junior) unfortunatly, the links I can find to it are no longer working, basically it involved cutting out a bit of the PCB track to stop the reverse pump action when you release, and stops it sucking air back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 There is a mod you can do to the main PCB ... to stop the reverse pump action when you release, and stops it sucking air back in.Series diode in line with the pump ought to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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