Jump to content

Trantec S5.3/S5.5 transmitter lock - remote control


cedd

Recommended Posts

Hello people of the Blue Room!

I posted a query ages ago about Trantec transmitters and if it would be possible to lock the functions of the transmitter without having them near the receivers (think crowded front of house positions, radio mic techs working away from the rack, or racks hidden under the stage). I contacted Trantec and they didn't have a clue, so I thought I'd find out for myself....

 

After a recent ebay purchase, the answer is..... YES!

 

I bought one of these universal remotes for about £16 including postage and packaging. I don't see why another brand wouldn't work. The important thing is it's a "learning remote" rather than just a universal remote where you key in the code of your tv. This one actually records the infrared commands from the original remote, allowing you to lay out the buttons with the functions you want.

 

There are iphone add on devices that also allow you to design your own UI and record commands, but the hardware is around the £70 mark, and my remote can live in a pouch of my radio mic holder (I use one of these to hold my beltpacks during a show) without fear of getting lost.

 

I plan on sticking very small cut out dymo labels on mine to show the new button functions, as the remote comes with things like "channel +" and "channel -" on it.

 

So, what to do? Well you need a mic receiver. Set the remote to "learn" mode (with my remote, you have to tell it which button you want to assign first), then send a lock command from the receiver with the remote held in front of it. There's no handshaking, it's a purely one way thing. The remote will learn the code (in my instance, it'll bleep). Then just repeat with another button for the unlock command.

 

Hey presto! You can now lock and unlock your transmitters without need of a receiver. Even better, if you use the clear fronted hanging mic holders (shoe holders in a previous life, linked to above) you can lock all the transmitters at once - the infrared LED beam angle is quite wide so it'll easily do them all, as long as the receiver's "eye" is facing outwards and not obscured by cable.

 

I see no reason (though haven't tried it yet) why you couldn't assign an individual frequency to a button, as it seems to send the whole frequency as an infrared string when programming. I can foresee this being very useful when you work with a predetermined batch of channels (let's say the 12 in channel 38). You could have a button for each frequency. Then if you've got a spare pack being used by a mic tech, it only takes a quick "xyz's pack has died, give them the spare" and providing you can get the original pack switched off, it takes one button to get the new one working on the correct frequency so no repatching has to be done front of house. I prefer to run with a full TX/RX pair as a spare, but it's not always possible in a big show where you need the channel real estate.

 

Never know, Trantec might like the idea and produce a handy keyfob...... it was my idea first though it it happens!

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work.

 

I see no reason (though haven't tried it yet) why you couldn't assign an individual frequency to a button, as it seems to send the whole frequency as an infrared string when programming.

 

Would that make it possible to set all of them to the same frequency by mistake? I don't think I'd want a button that could do that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indeed it could, (oh the fun that could be had!!!) which is why I'm going to set my remote so that one device (it can handle up to 6 - DVD, tv, stereo etc.) is for locking and unlocking, but you've got to actively scroll through devices before changing frequencies. It'd be something that a backstage mic tech would have to be aware of.

 

This has actually already caught me out before I got the remote - I changed the frequency of one tx, but the others were all on and about a metre away from the receiver rack. I found a few of them on the same frequency afterwards!

 

Could have a lot of fun with a suitably programmed remote and someone else's show. The tx's are always ready to accept an infrared command, and I can't find a way of stopping it. What's the chances of the green room telly remote happening to command a frequency change mid show? :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't have an S5.5 to check unfortunately. That said, I see no reason why not. The only difference I've seen to date is the extra features on the software monitoring and more available channels.

 

I had a look at my friend's Sennheiser G3 rack, to see if it would work with that. It was mid run of a show though so didn't want to fiddle too much as we'd only have found out when the curtain went up if I'd knocked a setting whilst playing. I see less need for the G3's though as the power switch is under the cover, and the mute switch isn't the kind of thing you'll need to lock and unlock regularly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The S5.3 Chan 38 and S5.5 Chan 70 have different codes. I have opted to chose the device type selection of the controller for Lock, Unlock and Safe (No code) The Trantec type is on two adjacent keys so that you can send the two types sequentially without the need to see which type that you are sending to, rather lazy but practical. I normally issue beltpacks ready locked with the power button being turned to as they are handed out. As they were handed in the battery was removed, but this will no longer be necessary. It should help prolong the life of the flex strip that connects the power to the main board, always a weak point! The really useful feature of the controller is that the mic gain can be locked along with the power but readily unlocked for controlled adjustment during rehearsal. Even though the gain buttons are effectively recessed I have seen some strange " self adjusting" settings. I still believe all the "I never touched it" outpourings from the cast. ;)

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent! I wasn't able to test with S5.5's for obvious reasons that I don't own any! Useful information. Reckon it's worth a wiki entry? I was thinking of doing a quick instruction video for youtube when time allowed - it's useful knowledge worth sharing.

 

After a quick chat with Boswell today (in person! I've finally met a real blue roomer!) I did have a quandry (and can't get to my transmitters for a stack of 16 Strand T84's currently to check) - does the lock stay if you remove a battery and re-insert it? In effect powering the unit down and back up again. It doesn't on the Line 6 transmitters but does on Sennheiser (thanks for the tip Bernie!). Be good to know for Trantec.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both the S5.3 and S5.5 retain the lock settings on battery removal. This enables you to leave the lock permanantly engaged. If you replace the battery with the switch in the off position the pack does not power up until the switch is moved to "on" It means that you can prepare the pack at leisure and then when it is handed to the talent switch on and they can't switch it off. As an aside, I ordered a new rack of S5.3 recently and thought it would be prudent to have a stock of spare aerials. The price quoted was £18 each!!!!! Negotiations are under way.

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have access to a lathe then aerials aren't that hard to make yourself.....

The screw-in part is only a 3mm thread, so if you take a nut and drill it out with a very thin drill so it's got a hollow centre, then Heat it and solder a legth of wire into the hole, you've got yourself a spare aerial (after a liberal coating of heatshrink).

The spare aerials from Mike Lowe are cheaper than the trantec's and whilst I haven't opened one up, look to be constructed in a similar way to how I've described above; Mike Lowe S5.3 aerial

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made plenty of aerials for 4000 series Trantec in the past, they used a standard M3 brass spacer. The S5 series would need, as you say, access to a lathe to reduce the body diameter. The other area that I haven't quite cracked is the right sort of wire to achieve the slight springiness required. Suggestions on wire type gratefully received.

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The difficulty is finding something that's springy, but not going to stab somebody. Solid wire just bends. Bike brake cable might work.

 

I always prefer fatter, stubbier aerials. I have some Sennheiser SK2012's that have "rubber ducky" style antennae on them. These are helical so not the best, but I did wonder if there was a non metalic springy tube we could use and thread an aerial cable down the middle. I've had my eye on some 4 or 5 mm pneumatic piping at work. It's springy enough to maintain shape. The difficulty is bonding it to the aerial base.

 

If I was that good with a lathe, I could make a boss that received the pipe into a cup, so a bit of adhesive would hold it in place. Unfortunately my lathe skills never got beyond drilling holes and skimming things!

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

An idea for the wire - bicycle brake cable, covered in heatshrink?

 

Pete.

 

I do exactly that, Bike bowden cable inner, either the brake or the thinner gear change type, cover with heat shrink, all my senn G1 kit has this type of aerial now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.