mar2195 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I have no experience repairing a moving head fixture. I've learned a lot reading through this forum and other articles on the web. The fixture and the lamp are about a yr & a half old. The 250AT's lamp went out... or at least the fixture wouldn't light. The old bulb 'seems' to have died. I replaced the lamp. Still nothing. Just to check again, I used another new lamp as a replacement. Still nothing. I checked the fuse... but I've never seen a fuse like this before. I have no idea what a blown fuse with this type of fuse is supposed to look like. ?? QUESTION: Is the fuse only for the lamp or for the entire fixture? I was told by a tech to do the following. I'm hoping for some feedback regarding this advice before beginning this. 1. Check the relay on the logic board. I should hear a click when I turn the lamp ON/OFF from the relay. If this doesn't occur, it's probably the logic board. 2. Next check the igniter. Meter should read 230v when the lamp is ON. If I get a reading of 230v and no lamp, it's a bad igniter. 3. If I don't get a 230v reading... Take off the arm covers. Check the terminal block to see if it's burned up. Anything else? Anything to watch out for? Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadhippy Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I checked the fuse... but I've never seen a fuse like this before. I have no idea what a blown fuse with this type of fuse is supposed to look likedont bother looking at it,put a meter on it and check it for continuity.have you checked the menus to make sure the lamp is turned on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Allen Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Go into the fixture menu and get the Lamp Hours and Fixture Hours so you can get an idea of how old the lamp might have been. If you don't have a ColorSpot 250AT manual yet, print a copy. In the manual it says to "Before striking the lamp, reset the „LAti/rSEt” and „LASt/rSEt”counters in the „InFO” menu on the control panel, by pressing the „Up” and „Down” buttons in one time and then confirming with the „Enter”-button."You should keep a record of servicing including lamp changes to give you an estimate of when a new lamp is needed. Be careful using a meter when measuring lamp voltages as the igniter may destroy your meter. If the igniter is working, you will hear it tring to strike the lamp. The lamp timer will give you an indication of what condition the lamp will look like if the counters are reset when a lamp is changed. The number of lamp strikes will give an indication of what condition the lamp and igniter will be in. Lots of lamp strikes usually indicates an old lamp. Too many lamp strikes and the igniter gets stressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mar2195 Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 I checked the fuse... but I've never seen a fuse like this before. I have no idea what a blown fuse with this type of fuse is supposed to look likedont bother looking at it,put a meter on it and check it for continuity.have you checked the menus to make sure the lamp is turned on? Yes. The lamp is on. Also, I put the unit in TEST mode to see it 'run.' Everything but the lamp is functioning. ... get an idea of how old the lamp might have been. Lamp time: 1121 (2000hr lamp)Strikes: 261 I've been trying to do things by the book as much as possible. Also, this fixture was a Demo in a Guitar Center. However, I am the 1st owner. I was told by another lighting guy that a lamp should be replaced BEFORE it dies to protect the fixture. Is this true? Can a fixture/parts be damaged if the fixture is is running with a dead lamp? Any comments regarding this info? QUESTION: Is the fuse only for the lamp or for the entire fixture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamtastic3 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Regarding the lamp replacement, it's recommended that the lamp should be changed as soon as it looks like it needs changed or has done its lamp hours otherwise the lamp can eventually explode, causing the lamp envelope to smash all over the dichroics, lenses and moving parts. Sometimes an exploded lamp will take out the condenser lens too. This is why it's good to reset the lamp hours when changing the lamp so that the mover can stop igniting a 'used' lamp or so that you can gauge how long the lamp life is and don't damage the insides of your very expensive mover ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mar2195 Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Regarding the lamp replacement, it's recommended that the lamp should be changed as soon as it looks like it needs changed or has done its lamp hours otherwise the lamp can eventually explode, causing the lamp envelope to smash all over the dichroics, lenses and moving parts. Sometimes an exploded lamp will take out the condenser lens too. This is why it's good to reset the lamp hours when changing the lamp so that the mover can stop igniting a 'used' lamp or so that you can gauge how long the lamp life is and don't damage the insides of your very expensive mover ;) As I said, I'm new to the moving head fixture world...Wouldn't it be a good idea to have some type of wire mesh housing that I could install to prevent damage to other parts of the fixture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peza2010 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Nope. You don't want to be cleaning out specs of glass at all, so instead of installing something in there - just keep an eye on lamp hours... And of course buy reliable, good quality lamps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mar2195 Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 I'm trying to get to the board - to the relay - in the base. How do I open the base? I've tried unscrewing a ton of screws but I still can't figure out exactly how to get into the base? (Please explain exactly - Thank you.) ANY help is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley R Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 I would think you would need to undo the 4 screws holding the front and back plastic dressing plates first, then unscrew I'm guessing about 8 screws holding the top covers down, But this is only an educated guess from looking at pictures, and working with other brands of mover, but it might be just the info you are looking for. If not just have to wait til someone with the know how comes along and posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mar2195 Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 I had the same thought in mind. But after unscrewing a bunch of screws (...almost all of them), I still could not get into the base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Patrick Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Educated Guess is, it will be the Ignitor gone , cheep to replace. Search the Robe Down Loads for any hints on where it is, it is most Probably a Plastic looking Barrell object with a thread moulded on one end, or metal, but most most 250 Ignitors are plastic, it could also be rectangular in shape like some High End Systems Instruments, I would try and find a local parts supplier and get there advice, you will need them to order the part, not hard to replace as long as you but it back in in reverse order, ie mark all cables with numbers or some other such means if you are unsure, Having repaired a lot of movers I really don't think it is too hard a job. Oh also the ignitor is usually in the head on most instruments, and relatively easy to get to. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Couch Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 If you don't get voltage at the ignitor, it would probably be the ballast, seeing as it's been a while, did you fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mar2195 Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 I'm having a 'real' tech look at the fixture. I'll post back after hearing what was causing the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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