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Require someones knowledge on moving head repairs


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Hi all, new to the forum. I'm currently working my way through my local nightclubs lighting rig, as lots of the lights hasn't worked or worked properly for a while. Just after other peoples input really. The rig consists of 4 robe spot 250 xts, 3 spot 250 xts, 4 futurelight rt 240s and a wizard extreme.


One of the wash 250s has been sat showing no light output but the lamp is fine. I took the front cover off and moved the shutters and colour wheel by hand, but when I run a test or a sequence there's no sign of life from either of them, it just stays one colour and can't be blacked out or strobed. My first thought was one of the pcb's seeing as it's both the wheel and shutter not working, can anyone advise me further?


The other problem is with a spot 250. It tilts fine, but the motor that makes it pan is constantly moving it in one direction until it htis it's limit, then it just sits vibrating as the motor can't move it any further. I assume it's something to do with the sensor that keeps track of how much it pans, maybe needs replacing or resetting, but again, just after some suggestions before I start troubleshooting.



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I haven't worked on those particular lights, but I have repaired several others, in particular Martin MAC 250s!


If the logic side is working but there is no movement, it's likely that the electronics uses two supply rails: 5V and 12V. The logic circuit will be 5V, but the motor might operate on 12V. Check all internal fuses and for any other supply voltages (have a look in the one that has one-way movement too) to check if you have a supply down. From TVs to computers, DVD players to moving lights, most problems come down to the power supply circuit. (Even though one light is a wash, and the other is a spot, the electronics will mostly be the same)


As for the light with one-way rotation, the usual cause for this (on many lights) is a broken wire to the stepper motor going through the spindle. Use a decent multimeter to check the resistance/continuity of the wires to the motor. Disconnect the motor wires from the control board first to avoid a "contaminated" result and don't just "beep test" it, look at the resistance! If one wire has broken, replace all the wires in that set as they are probably only hanging on in there with a few strands left. When I did this with MAC250s, I found it just as easy to replace the whole set, including connector contacts, as soldering all the wires together to the old ones.

The connectors aren't expensive, for example:


5 way housing, 10pk = 45p

Contacts, 100pk = £1.29

Silicone insulated 0.22mm2 wire, black, 25m = £5.41 (silicone is more flexible than PVC and is less affected by heat so should last longer)


Again, I haven't operated on these particular lights, so they may have their own little "quirks" that someone else can offer more detailed advice on.

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As for the light with one-way rotation, the usual cause for this (on many lights) is a broken wire to the stepper motor going through the spindle.


Its been a while, but if it's the units I'm thinking of, I think I've seen that fault before. It was on a hire unit and I was advised that the limit switches are magnetic and the magnet has a tendancy to drop off the shaft. Sadly being a hire unit it was swapped for the spare and returned, so I have no idea how you go about repairing it!

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The one that powers up and homes but continues to bang against its end stop sounds to me like the limit hal sencsor is ether missing, to far away or no longer sensing. they do get like that. If its pan then I think its less liky to be cable as its cable doesnt move so id open it up at the base and see how the sensor lines up with the magnet.


Oh or the magnet could be missing too.



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