Green Ginger control voltage?

[scaryrobot]

Just a quick one, I'm just wondering if anyone knows the standard control voltage for the old analogue (4 channel/6-pin DIN) Green Ginger dimmers? I measured about 18V, which is neither 15V nor 20, and the dimmers themselves are sending 30V on the +ve line, which is no help. I'm guessing the dimmers are expecting either 15V or 20V on each channel, but as all these units are all about 30 years old by now I wouldn't be surprised if a trimpot somewhere has gone astray and thrown the whole thing out. Could anyone shed some light?

 

Thanks

[James]

I thought they were standard +10v stuff myself. I run mine off pulsar analouge boards all the time and as far as I know the dimmer hasn't been modified at all.

 

Are you measuring with a very high impedance dvm? sounds like you are running something unterminated that wants to be as I thought it was +15v to the desk and the dimmers wanted +10v.

 

James

[andystone]

Just a quick one, I'm just wondering if anyone knows the standard control voltage for the old analogue (4 channel/6-pin DIN) Green Ginger dimmers? I measured about 18V, which is neither 15V nor 20, and the dimmers themselves are sending 30V on the +ve line, which is no help. I'm guessing the dimmers are expecting either 15V or 20V on each channel, but as all these units are all about 30 years old by now I wouldn't be surprised if a trimpot somewhere has gone astray and thrown the whole thing out. Could anyone shed some light?

 

Thanks

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

They are absolutely definitely +10V input for the control voltage, but they sent out 18V to power the control desk - I used to work for them many moons ago!

[scaryrobot]

They are absolutely definitely +10V input for the control voltage, but they sent out 18V to power the control desk - I used to work for them many moons ago!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Excellent. Many thanks. I suspect this DVM is a bit dodgy, I was struggling to believe it was 30V somehow. Don't suppose you know how much current the desk can comfortably pull on that +18V line?

[James]

Andy,

 

If you don't mind me asking, was there any form of a mod to the dimmers to make them slightly less likley to cause RCDs to trip out?

 

Also, the local arts centre where I help has 6 of them racked up with about 8 triacs out. They have tried to source modern replacements but have drawn a blank trying to find the specification of the old triacs. Searching on the old part number doesn't seem to help. Is there any chance you know of anyone who would have the information to help with either question.

 

Apologies for asking questions relating to a previous job but it would be nice to have the whole rack operational again.

 

Cheers

 

James.

[Mush]

Andy,

 

If you don't mind me asking, was there any form of a mod to the dimmers to make them slightly less likley to cause RCDs to trip out?

 

Might be Y rated capacitors wired from L and N to Earth internally as well as an X rated between L& N , these can leak a bit, removal might make them marginally more electrically noisy or replace them with fresh Y rated parts

 

<EDIT>

 

To add that personally would just remove the Y rateds to Earth, its a scheme used in motor suppression , which is fine with just a motor in the circuit, with multiple channels of dimming its different, Y rated are meant to leak slightly to Earth, can be a cumulative effect which is affecting the RCD. Removal is unlikely to increase RFI or line borne noise signifcantly </EDIT>

 

Also, the local arts centre where I help has 6 of them racked up with about 8 triacs out. They have tried to source modern replacements but have drawn a blank trying to find the specification of the old triacs. Searching on the old part number doesn't seem to help. Is there any chance you know of anyone who would have the information to help with either question.

 

Unless they`re sensitive gate , just about any triac should do, BTA16 -600 is popular.