Anna Phalactic Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 HiI have a soundlab hi scan which has a broken light ceramic.Any ideas as to where I can get a replacement? I also have a mh660 with a Pan problem.It gets to the end of it's full Pan movement in test,then sticks and judders.Any ideas? thanks for your time and hopefull responce A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niclights Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 What type of lamp for the scanner? Most lighting suppliers will be able to provide these. For Pan check end of travel sensor/wiring. Try cleaning and if still a problem swap with good unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anna Phalactic Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 What type of lamp for the scanner? Most lighting suppliers will be able to provide these. For Pan check end of travel sensor/wiring. Try cleaning and if still a problem swap with good unit. thanks for your replythe lamp for the scanner is a phillips 250w 24v elc/10has for the mover, tried cleaning no good so could you recomend somewhere I could get a replacement?many thanksA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjammy83 Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 What type of lamp for the scanner? Most lighting suppliers will be able to provide these. For Pan check end of travel sensor/wiring. Try cleaning and if still a problem swap with good unit. thanks for your replythe lamp for the scanner is a phillips 250w 24v elc/10has for the mover, tried cleaning no good so could you recomend somewhere I could get a replacement?many thanksA you can pick up the ceramic lamp holders from maplin or cpc quite cheaply sadly I can't really help with the pan problem. james Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinE Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 The juddering of course is because the stepper motor is trying to turn the head past the mechanical stop. It's probably lost its position. Check that the pan encoder sensor & toothed wheel is clean (and its connections good to the daughter pcb and then on to the main pcb) and then the same with the hall sensor & magnet, this is actuated by the big plastic sprocket driven off the pan belt. If these are in order, check with a meter to see if the 3 sensors (2 for the wheel and one for the magnet) actually produce a logic output as they are actuated. The pan encoder sensor is a 2-bit quadrature signal and both signals have to be present for it to work. Occasionally the chip that processes the sensor information can lose certain functions like this if it's been zapped by trying to run the fixture without its lamp. They aren't that dear and Robe may get them for you if you ring as they made this old unit for Futurelight. I assume you're competent with elecrical maintenance since to gain access to the sensors etc you have to remove the base covers and that exposes lethal voltages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anna Phalactic Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 Thanks for the responce. Yes this fixing lights is a mystery...................... However managed to get the said ceramic of ebay :http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=290476822124one problem solved So as to the moving light, I did what the doctor's ordered and swapped both sensors..................out of the other mh660 we haveie completly removed the pan sensor and the magnet by the base of the big wheel..........and swapped them out of the good one and into the not so good one......................the light with the problem is still having a problem................pan juddering and the good one is still opperational............. any ideas? Moderation: Some very strange line by line text formatting removed...still looks a bit messy but easier to read at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niclights Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Next thing to do is swap cables to sensor. If problem remains then swap each of the PCB's in turn. Obviously this is much harder so deliberately left until last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anna Phalactic Posted September 28, 2010 Author Share Posted September 28, 2010 thanksswapped the cables to the sensors and the result was still the same.before I try to swap the circut boards,have noticed that both mh660's have a variation in their reset sequence.the one without fault goes through the motion and stops 90degree upright(unit on floor facing upwards) then after 10 seconds goes into test. the one with fault goes into reset then into test straight away! until it reaches the end of its pan movement and starts juddering. also the test sequence differ from eachother, one fast the other slow.any more help would be appreciated.A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinE Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 do a factory reset DFSE and try them again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anna Phalactic Posted September 28, 2010 Author Share Posted September 28, 2010 Hi KevinHow do I do that?Anna Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anna Phalactic Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 OkI found out how to do the DFSE.And still get the same reult. So I think the problem is the IC on the main PCB?am I correct in assuming this?thanksA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinE Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 Not necessarily, it might be something else on the pcb or not at all. Personally I dont like recommending swapping bits over until a very last resort because you might end up with 2 faulty ones, instead of 1! It's happened to hapless posters on BR before and it's a sad outcome when it happens. Really, the proper way of fault finding on a complicated electronic circuit like the innards of a moving head with a strange fault is to get in there with the schematic and scope or multimeter and use good old fashioned powers of deduction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anna Phalactic Posted September 30, 2010 Author Share Posted September 30, 2010 Thanks Kevin for the advicelet you know how it goes with a multi meter as aschematic and scope is somthing I dont knowhow to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinE Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 aschematic and scope is somthing I dont knowhow to use. Well sorry, there isn't always a DIY solution to everything I'm afraid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamieshurlock Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 It is the wire loom (4-way) that goes near the fan, smoke fluid has probably corroded the contacts.Even if it bleeps out fine with a multimeter it will still have the fault, common problem on these I've seen many times...Let me know if you need a cable as I have some here for these...jamieshurlock@hotmail.comorsales@jamiesmagictorch.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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