MrKitkat Posted February 27, 2010 Posted February 27, 2010 At our school we have two Zero 88 Betapacks (6 channel) wired up to a very dated Level 18 controller. One of the dimmers works fine, but on the other dimmer we have several problems:1) On channel 6, one of the sockets has lost its fuse completely, cap and all. Does anybody know where we could get another fuse and cap?2) This is where we're really confused. On channels 3 & 4 when you plug lights into them they come on at full blast and you can't control them on the controller.. We've worked out that it can't be the controller because we've tried that dimmer in all of the inputs. It isnt the lights because we've tried different lights in the sockets and they still have the same problem. Does anybody know how to fix it because we're all stumped.
dunk_1984 Posted February 27, 2010 Posted February 27, 2010 1) Stage Electrics.2) Set both dimmers to the same channel of the working one, and if it works then it's likely something to do with the control end of things, if it doesn't then it's likely something to do with cabling the units. This being a good start to fault finding. Also just checking the second unit is on the correct address would be a good idea.
smalljoshua Posted February 27, 2010 Posted February 27, 2010 2) To me, it sounds like something in the dimmer has gone. IIRC some of the control circuitry is paired on Betapacks. I'll bow to those with greater knowledge to say what it is that is shared. Josh
pritch Posted February 27, 2010 Posted February 27, 2010 What version of Betapack? Betapack 1? http://www.blue-room.org.uk/wiki/Betapack_...Large_Resistors
Andrew C Posted February 27, 2010 Posted February 27, 2010 1) RS, CPC, Maplins, or if you have deep pockets Stage, AC, and others.2) What Pritch wrote. See the search box up the top of the page? Searching for "Betapack" returned the first hit on our Wiki with the info the OP needs.
MrKitkat Posted February 28, 2010 Author Posted February 28, 2010 1) RS, CPC, Maplins, or if you have deep pockets Stage, AC, and others.2) What Pritch wrote. See the search box up the top of the page? Searching for "Betapack" returned the first hit on our Wiki with the info the OP needs. Definately Betapack 1. They take sort of kettle lead type plugs if that's any help (There's probably a posh name for them but I don't know it) They are pretty old though, as our light diagram is dated april 1991! Having looked at the page that pritch suggested, just one more question. Where can you get some 100K ohm 1 watt resistors? Would your average electrical shop have them?
boswell Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 Where can you get some 100K ohm 1 watt resistors? Would your average electrical shop have them? CPC, RS, Maplin
bruce Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 Where can you get some 100K ohm 1 watt resistors? Would your average electrical shop have them? Looking at your profile page, it appears that you are a 14-year-old pupil at the school which is having problem. You should not even consider attempting to replace these components! It needs to be done by someone with the appropriate qualifications, experience, authorisation and insurance! And that person would know where to source the components...
MrKitkat Posted February 28, 2010 Author Posted February 28, 2010 Where can you get some 100K ohm 1 watt resistors? Would your average electrical shop have them? Looking at your profile page, it appears that you are a 14-year-old pupil at the school which is having problem. You should not even consider attempting to replace these components! It needs to be done by someone with the appropriate qualifications, experience, authorisation and insurance! And that person would know where to source the components... I know, but I'm just asking because I'm confused about why they're going wrong. I never would even think about actually replacing them, of course I'd let someone else do that. The only reason I asked is because I haven't heard of that kind of resistor before. Obviously I was way off when I thought something had gone wrong with the connections.... (my original theory)
JimWebber Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 Dan, Please do not beat yourself up too much for being wrong about your original connection theory. In my day job, I used to instruct (Amongst other things) Fault Finding on some very complex electronic systems... In your original post, you showed great fault diagnosis techniques, by logically proving each individual component - Something that I am sorry to say many foundation degree level students are unable to do... Now I am *cough* years older then you, and I was aware of the resistor problem with Betapacks. Had I not known about this, I think that a connector fault is quite likely, and given your experimenting, a very logical choice. (Snap question to the OP, why is it unlikely to be a Triac / Thyristor (ie the bit that actually does the dimming / switching) fault???) - See, good instructional technique there. Although, I do feel obliged to point out that as others have said, a search would have been in order, and PLEASE do not attempt to change those resistors yourself. By all means offer to help someone qualified do it - The experience will do you the world of good. Good luck with your future Technician experiences Jim
MrKitkat Posted February 28, 2010 Author Posted February 28, 2010 Thank you very much. At least I know what's gone wrong now, even if I can't fix it. Thanks for all the help guys! (and I'm not even going to take the cover off the dimmer, all I do is operate the light board, panic when it goes wrong and change a couple of patches/filters. After all, 100K ohms sounds like there must be a lot of current going through)
bruce Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 After all, 100K ohms sounds like there must be a lot of current going through) quite the opposite. Highish resistance, therefore low current. But that's irrelevant - the thing to be aware of is the other components on that PCB are carrying mains voltages and currents...
tommulliner Posted March 1, 2010 Posted March 1, 2010 We had this problem on our old dimmers - that some of the channels were perminently on. We just send them to our local suplier company and were fixed in a week or so. Never knew what it was, but have more of an idea after reading this thread...
Stutwo Posted March 1, 2010 Posted March 1, 2010 They are pretty old though, as our light diagram is dated april 1991! Is it just me, or did this make anyone else feel old?
WiLL Posted March 2, 2010 Posted March 2, 2010 I suppose you've checked the obvious with these 'always on' channels and made sure that no 'test' button is on? It's been a while since I've worked with betapack 1's so I can't remember if they have have them or not.
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