Stuart91 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 We've got a customer who wants to do a "UV party" in a pretty large sports hall - about the size of two 5 a side football courts. For this to work, I guess they're going to need a lot of UV. We've got some stock of the standard 400w cannons, and I have access to plenty more if I want to sub-hire. What I'm wondering is if there's anything bigger or more powerful available. I'd rather rig a handful of big fixtures than lots of relatively small ones. I figure I'd get more consistent coverage and save a lot of rigging time and crew costs. I'm aware that there may well be health and safety issues with large UV fixtures, to save anyone jumping in. If something suitable exists, it'll be rigged well above the audience, and I'm looking for even spread over a large area, rather than intense UV in a small area. Anyone aware of anything that might be suitable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamtastic3 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Hmmm....Not knowing anything more than 400W cannons, I'll give some advice on the cannon route. If it really is as large as two 5 a side pitches and the place has to be completely lit in UV then I'd say you're up to around 8 to 12 UV cannons to wash the whole space.Rather than having the fixtures point vertically down, you want them to throw the light more in the horizontal direction so I'd think of the space as a huge rectangle. You want to have UV's in all 4 corners on stands (1 or two cannons to each corner) and then along the length of the room have extra filler UV's (1 or 2 on opposing sides) if needed, in the centre of the length between the corner points. Basically you want to light it like how pitches are lit at night - usually by 4 sets of lights, one in each corner. This does mean along of cable runs if the power supply is centralised. And yes, remember power consumption. I've never washed anything as large as that, so my number of UV's is only a very rough guesstimate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart91 Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 If it really is as large as two 5 a side pitches and the place has to be completely lit in UV then I'd say you're up to around 8 to 12 UV cannons to wash the whole space.Rather than having the fixtures point vertically down, you want them to throw the light more in the horizontal direction so I'd think of the space as a huge rectangle. You want to have UV's in all 4 corners on stands (1 or two cannons to each corner) and then along the length of the room have extra filler UV's (1 or 2 on opposing sides) if needed, in the centre of the length between the corner points. 8 or 12 cannons is not beyond the realms of possibility. There's plenty of power available but it will be a relatively tiresome job to get them all rigged. There are some restrictions on where we could place stands, which is why I'm thinking bigger fixtures might make more sense if they exist... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRisdale Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Viking Stage Lighting stock 400w arc floods which look useful. I've never used them and don't know who else has them - but they exist! Gareth. Edit: Added clicky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lightnix Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Could you get away with simulating UV, by using high power (1200W) movers in the deepest possible blue? Or (as GRisdale hints) maybe by colouring some HMI floods with Congo Blue or a custom-cut dichroic?? Both solutions would look OK IMO and have the same effect as real UV, on fluorescent materials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
collism Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Surely even 4 pairs of 400W UV canons on T bars with one in each corner would produce an acceptable result. My gut reaction would be to do that plus maybe have a couple of extra sets to place at a convenient location/ to cover any unlit spots. Saves on worrying out about control/ control cabling and hopefully could be run off local power in each corner. Any money saved could be spend on UV decor which in my opinion is just as important as the UV sources themselves for these type of events - make them forget it is a sports hall! Also make sure glowsticks are going to be in plentiful supply - money to be made here if the organiser is not supplying <_< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam2 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 It might be worth considering blacklight flourescent tubes. Although you will need more of these than of UV cannons, they are relativley cheap and compact, and give an excellent spread of UV light. 8 or more UV cannons and stands will be quite a bulk to transport and set up.Perhaps 16 flourescent fittings each with two lamps of 58 watts might be easier, presuming that they can be safely suspended from the ceiling. If floor stands are the only way, then UV cannons might be better. If the normal lighting of the venue is flourescent, then it may be possible to remove the regular lamps and substitute blacklight ones in the existing fixtures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadhippy Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 what sort of light fittings are already in the sports center? if its some sort of discharged could you change the lamps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robloxley Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Discharge fresnel e.g. Wildfire fresnel (400w) or a bigger HMI fresnel with UV-pass glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart91 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 Thanks for all the replies so far. It's nice to come in from a show and find them all here! LightNix - Not sure that lots of large movers would be brilliant bang for the buck / use of vehicle space, especially since we don't have many to hand. Some kind of filter over a big light source might be an idea though. MadHippy / Adam - good idea on the light fittings, but they're well out of the way and would require a cherry picker to get to. Given the schedule for the build and de-rig, it probably can't happen for this one. We do have some UV tubes available, and I think I might line the front edge of the stage with them so that there's a more intense effect there. (There will be a barrier to keep the punters away from the tubes) robloxley - UV-pass glass sounds interesting. Hadn't come across it despite quite a bit of googling. I guess I'm best looking at film lighting suppliers for this kind of stuff and the big fresnels? One other thing that I am wondering about is the relative merits of different 400w fixtures. There are two kinds available, the "cannon" and "flood". I can get hold of floods marginally cheaper, but I wonder if they'll be too wide a dispersion for this kind of application, i.e. too much of the output spread around the walls and ceiling and not on the punters. Anyone had the chance for a decent comparison between the two? Cannon: http://www.dealmonger.com/images/P/API-6481-6421.UV_Canon.jpg Flood: http://www.matrixproductions.com.au/images/gallery/Equipment/UV_Flood_hire_stock.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingwalker Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 If I'm not mistaken I believe that both units take the same MBI 400w lamp, but for a nice even spread I'd go with a cannon any day. Not wishing to throw a spanner in the works but surely with all that UV floating around even in a venue of this size would there not be a questionable cause for concern for peoples eyesite over a prolonged period of time??? David. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musht Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 concern for peoples eyesite over a prolonged period of time??? Power density, with 400W `cannons` reckon on 3m (10 feet) as recomended MINIMUM DISTANCE from people, not just their eyes. Very real risk of sunburn on skin, it won`t tan just burn and arc eye if people are too close for too long. Get them high or behind barriers and high to keep at least minimum seperation. Relatively the Sun is a massive UV source as well but it also emits visible light that makes your iris close, Blacklight lamps don`t.... UV pass glass is known as Wood`s Glass after its inventor Prof Robert W. Wood. Blacklight effects need the decor as well, UV backdrops, floor stickers , signage , UV active food and drink accesories are a help as well, comes off the caterers budget, use an antidandruff shampoo and dont wear black ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hexdiy Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 concern for peoples eyesite over a prolonged period of time??? Blacklight effects need the decor as well, UV backdrops, floor stickers , signage , UV active food and drink accesories are a help as well, comes off the caterers budget, use an antidandruff shampoo and dont wear black ;-)Just a silly remark, really, but did you know that Schweppes Indian Tonic reacts really aggressively to UV? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musht Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Just a silly remark, really, but did you know that Schweppes Indian Tonic reacts really aggressively to UV? Its the quinine in it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quinine Some dayglow colours won`t actually fluoresce and some unexpected things will, a money checker UV LED torch is handy shopping accesory For a really good effect , some sort of water feature, a blacklight and a little drop of this :-) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fluorescent-Dyes-Flu...=item5183b420f0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 If you are feeling in a making/doing mood modified Patt60s make good blacklights, use the high power egg shaped blacklight tubes, change the lampholder and build the ballast gear onto one of the flat surfaces of the lantern casing, a perfect blacklight fitting in about an hour (furse did a "proper' version of this C1980, probably not many left though!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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