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Mac 250 Entour 'HOT' error


Mark_UniLeeds

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I just took my entire rig down for a deep clean (6 250 washes, 6 250 Krypton and 4 250 Entour) all went smoothly (which is rare) and apart from the fact that the smoke fluid I use is clearly causing massive build ups of dust, the rig located and ran as fine.... except one. One of the entours had been giving an intermittent 'HOT' error for a couple of weeks. While it was down I changed the lamp as it was about time and hoped this would solve the issue. Instead whereas before it was an intermittent error, now it is constant. The strange thing is that the lamp itself has struck so it's not the ignitor and I don't think it's the balast. I haven't changed the voltage or the frequency and all of the fans are connected and seem to be working.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions it's really annoying that my rig is all back looking clean and running smooth except for this one fixture.

 

Cheers

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... but if the lamp is on and I'm still getting the error message how have I answered my own question?

 

Touche', I may have been too hasty in my reply.

 

The error HOT indicates (to the best of my knowledge) that the core temperature of the lamp housing is too hot, so perhaps a bad fan or poor ventilation above the fixture that keeps heat trapped?

 

Other possibility is that the heat sensor is failing.

 

It's been a while since I have been inside a 250, so I may be taking out my other end.

 

Cheers,

-w

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The first thing to check as stated is the light sensor. If this is plugged into the correct slot on the PCB (Which I would guess it would as it has been working fine for a while) then check for dry joints on the light sensor PCB. The PCB is located to the right on the metal fan assembly. Maybe grab a working one from another unit and test it.

 

I think the entours can tell you their base and head temp, make sure nothing is out of the ordinary there before moving onto checking the temperature sensor (below):

 

As stated it could also be the temperature sensor. This is located on the main metal divider between the lamp assembly and modules. It should be top left on the side you take the modules out from. This is, from my experience, prone to dry joints due to the heat its subjected to. Again, a visual inspection / try one from another unit should suffice. Also worth noting is the 2core cable that goes from this sensor back to the PCB can get caught in the module holding arm, do a continuity check to make sure this hasn't happened.

 

Woody, in relation to the HOT error, you are correct. Although with the lamp striking and staying on suggests its not an actual heat issue, or the thermal fuse would have tripped causing the unit to lamp off. My bet is on the light sensor (I just had one go that was causing me all sorts of issues trying to get to the source of the issue!).

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The HOT error is nothing to do with the temperature of the head, so the readings for the head temperature bear no significance at all. It cannot be dispalyed before the lamp has been struck as it only occurs after a lamp on command has been sent to the fixture. Most poeple are correct to suggest looking at the light sensor circuit. The HOT error will be shown if the fixture has received a lamp on command and the light sensor has not detected any light output from the lamp ergo if the lamp is striking there is a problem with the light sensor detecting the light output from the lamp.
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Just to reitterate Matt Cowles post, you will only receive a 'HOT' error message when the lamp is already struck, and it receives another 'strike lamp' command. The error then comes up to tell you that it cannot possibly strike the lamp because the lamp is too hot to do so....which is a perfectly good statement due to the lamp already been struck! Check your lighting console to check what it is outputting on the 'reset' channel. If you're using a Strand 520 or similar make sure that you 'capture' that channel at the correct percentage for 'shutter open' which you can find in the manual on page 39 in the manual. It should be between 8 and 19%. I usually create a macro that will send that channel to a 'safe' percentage, and then create another macro which will send that channel to 100% to lamp off. If you're using a desk such as the Strand Palette or Ion/Eos, then just make sure that the channel control is set to idle. See if this solves the issue. If not, then yes it could be a faulty sensor. Hope this helps.
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That is not strictly true. The "number" of lamp on commands that the fixture receives is irrelevant. The HOT message occurs when the light sensor does not detect the light from the lamp after a lamp on command being sent....so the DMX value on the shutter channel being left at a "lamp on" value has no effect on a HOT message occurring or not, it is all to do with the light sensor or the lamp itself.
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Matt Cowles is correct here. The number of lamp on commands is irrelevant. The HOT error message is related to a lamp on command being sent but the fixtures light sensor never sees any light.

 

This could be a faulty light sensor, dry solder joints on the light sensor PCB or a broken wireset from the light sensor back to the PCB

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I just took my entire rig down for a deep clean (6 250 washes, 6 250 Krypton and 4 250 Entour) all went smoothly (which is rare) and apart from the fact that the smoke fluid I use is clearly causing massive build ups of dust, the rig located and ran as fine.... except one. One of the entours had been giving an intermittent 'HOT' error for a couple of weeks. While it was down I changed the lamp as it was about time and hoped this would solve the issue. Instead whereas before it was an intermittent error, now it is constant. The strange thing is that the lamp itself has struck so it's not the ignitor and I don't think it's the balast. I haven't changed the voltage or the frequency and all of the fans are connected and seem to be working.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions it's really annoying that my rig is all back looking clean and running smooth except for this one fixture.

 

Cheers

 

A concurrent post has been automatically merged from this point on.

 

I have also seen that error on a voltage drop. ie, hitting 60k of pars, voltage drop, the internal Mac sensor sees a voltage difference and shuts the fixture down. A hard reset brings them back on line.

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  • 3 years later...

I've used the info given here and its helped me fix 4 MAC 250 Kryptons I've also added the advice to my wiki project with pictures,

If you can suggest anything else I could add including pics while I still have these Macs then please let me know as the wiki has registrations for editing disabled at the moment!

 

http://www.thedmxwiki.com/lighting_fixtures/martin/mac_250_krypton

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