the kid Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Just wondering, I can find topics on cleaning truss, but none on standard scaff. Someone conveniently painted some scaff and then gave it to us. From what I know its a metal gloss paint.Is there a simple way of cleaning, will white spirit work, something else, or will engineering possibly have a magical chemical?I don't really want the job to be too messy because of time and the space I have to clean in but its probably inevitable. The other option is to key it up and paint it black, with flints black, which I'm happy to do as well. I do also have the paint on some ali clamps but I assume I can just copy the advice on the "how to clean truss" topics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamharman Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 White spirit may dissolve it eventually, but it will be very slow. You can buy various paint stripping chemicals. Nitromors, etc, which will do a better job Cellulose thinners works well, but I wouldn't want to write the risk assessment! Giving it a rub down and a coat of black paint is probably the easiest / cheapest / quickest option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 The trouble with scaff I generally find is when you want it to be that clean it is usually soo scratched that it is a lot easier (and potentially cheaper with time built in) to just buy a new length. If you cant find a use for the old bit of scaff the merchant you buy scaff from may buy it off you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Hmm. Aluminium scaff? Both Caustic Soda solution and (more scary) Nitric Acid eat quite a few things, but not aluminium. As others have said though, it will look tatty and scratched, and I think the best think to do is rub it down, and as the Rolling Stones advised: 'Paint it Black'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyro_gearloose Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Caustic Soda solution eats quite a few things, but not aluminium. Yes it does!!! The reaction between aluminium and caustic soda creates hydrogen. I wouldn't want to write the risk assessment for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew C Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 I know that one of MFIs divisions had a tank for dipping whole metal bed-frames in caustic prior to repainting. They had (may still have) contracts for re-furbishing furniture for the MoD. there are bound to be other companies around doing that sort of thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Not really the place for debate, but the caustic soda eats the aluminium oxide layer off the surface of the aluminium, yes this would include any anodized surface. The resultant reaction of the water with the aluminium releases the hydrogen as a new oxide layer is formed. In fact before anodizing aluminium, it is usually cleaned in this way to get rid of all the surface imputity and create a nice aesthetically pleasing finish. Unless you strip you truss/scaff down to 'wafer thin' or grind up as powder, you're not gonna get an explosion or anything like that. The risk assesment for the caustic soda handling or for that matter Nitric Acid like I also mentioned is plenty to keep you going anyway, let alone what you actually do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jeal Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Anything that is likely to "eat" away at welded joints or the structure itself of weight/load bearing truss or scaff is point blank not a good idea unless you want to get it all thoroughly tested again. Bead blasting may provide a solution to remove any paint finish fairly gently but the best option is to rub it down and paint it. Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kid Posted February 13, 2009 Author Share Posted February 13, 2009 Just like to point out again its STANDARD scaff, as in steel tubes, not ali. The clamps are ali. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew C Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 See if you can find someone to dip it for you. The tank at Made For Idiots probably wouldn't take a full length scaff tube, but there may be someone who could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivemaster Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 There is a 2.5 litre can of Nitromors paint and varnish stripper on ebay atm for £30. Nitromors is safe on metals when used with basic precautions, and is water washable and when diluted it is drain disposible. Only you can consider the cost benefit of 1/ cleaning the tube, 2/ preparing the tube for repaint, 3/buying new tube. Nitromors is certainly NOT nitric acid. Caustic soda strips paint but as a fluid solution so you have to immerse the product for a significant period so you would need a tank long enough..... Also Caustic soda is just that -very caustic- it eats clothes and skin so it is not nice to handle. Nitromors is a gel so you can apply it with a(n old) brush, then hose it off with the destroyed paint later. Nitromors is INcompatible with GRP/fibreglass surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyS Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Assuming that the base steel tube is not pitted with rust I’d get most off with a Stanley scraper. The rest I’d tackle with cellulose thinners - super stuff and it doesn't burn holes in skin like Nitromores... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Lewis Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Looks like Nitromors aint what it used to be.... The stuff I've used contained dichloromethane (methylene chloride for pre UIPACs). Looks like they've changed over to: 2-(2-BUTOXYETHOXY)ETHANOL + FORMIC ACID I still wouldn't wash my hands in it, but if you do get the older dichloromethane based stripper, it will happily knock you out if inhaled in relatively small quantities. Nasty stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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