glenn@KC Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Hello allI need a cracking gobo of a moon. I was all up for buying a glass Gobo but was worried about it fitting in my Selecon Pacific gobo holders when I found this Just wondered if anyone out there has used a Selecon Pacific Plastic Image Holder + UV/Heat Glass and can it really be as good as a glass gobo? I’ve tried printing on to OHP plastic film before and have had varying degrees of success but it has never really looked as good as glass and hasn’t lasted longer then a show or 2. Any thoughts? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 What's wrong with using #77220 in steel from Rosco? http://www.rosco.com/images/Gobos/Steel/Large/77220.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tokm Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Just wondered if anyone out there has used a Selecon Pacific Plastic Image Holder + UV/Heat Glass and can it really be as good as a glass gobo?I've done it a few times where custom gobo projection had to be done on the cheap. The quality of the projected image really did depend on what the gobo/image was, too complex and you got naff all light out the front. And the quality of the printer I used.. hasn’t lasted longer then a show or 2.The difference with the Pacific's is the marketing is correct, the gate really is cool, the heat all goes out the heat sink on the back of the lamp house. So when using them I've never had an issue making them last for at least 5 shows +. My advice would be, keep the image you want to project, as simple a possible, use the best laser printer you can find and make sure the settings are for as high res as it'll do, use a pacific with the image holder. HTH, T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenn@KC Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 What's wrong with using #77220 in steel from Rosco? what do you think looks betterhttp://www.bulbman.com/images/77220.jpgorhttp://jeffreykishner.com/images/full_moon_large.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Hampson Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 I have used teh Pacifics a couple of times, results do vary and not it will never be 'quite' as good as a proper glass gobo as the black of the toner will bleed through as a very dark grey. Download the document on the Pacific website, as it gives you a good guide to getting the m,ost out of this effect, note that it can't be done with any pacific, it's limited to the 800W version only. The guide walks you through the steps but you will need to do the following at least: Set the lamp for an over-flat field Use the proper goboholder (don't just shove the plastic in a standard holder.) Even with the low wattage lamp, a maximum of 80% is highly recomended, With the moon image, I would create a 'tin foil' gobo of the circular edge to ensure that there is no dark grey light around the edge of the projected moon, unless of course the moon image is the full size of the gate.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kid Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 I have made a number of posts on Pacifics and using acetates. As Neil says don't go above 80% I can push 90% depending on the black/colour content of the image. The plastic - ALWAYS use photocopy acetates and NOT inkjet, the photocopy process is much hotter, using a inkjet film in a photocopier = a horrible mess. It says you can print them but that temperature difference really can make all the difference. The image - A acetate will never be as good as a glass gobo BUT it can be near as. Clarity - on the lamp base of the lantern there are 3 adjustment knobs wind them all the way down. Then, with no gobo or shutter, using the middle one wind up and align the lamp to get the best brightness. You will be supprised the differance it makes, especially when using plastics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlinford Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 It's important to make sure you adjust the peaking properly (as mentioned) otherwise you will eat through the acetate very quickly - I've seen them burn out in as little as 25 minutes when it's incorrect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenn@KC Posted January 26, 2009 Author Share Posted January 26, 2009 Thanks for all the advice. I especially likeWith the moon image, I would create a 'tin foil' gobo of the circular edge to ensure that there is no dark grey light around the edge of the projected moonVery helpful. I’ll try it out I once tried making a Pacific gobo with acetate I laminated thinking that laminate sheets are supposed to tack extreme heat so the extra plastic would help the gobo life.As it turns out laminate sheets are designed to melt with any head and the whole thing got pretty messy.Woops!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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