andrewt Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Hi, a very rookie question but this has been frustrating me for several days now. Two of our SL 15/32 lamps blew very recently and we are having extreme difficulty in removing the back of the lantern to get at the bulb. We've tried all the screws around the back area of the lantern but alas no luck; the metal base into which (we assume) the lamp goes remains immovable. Very annoying - I've been working with lights in school for two years now, and you'd think that I'd know how to change a bulb... Up until now the SLs have been very reliable, we've had no need to open them up. Any help that anyone could provide would be very useful, I've searched for previous posts, and it seems that others have had similar problems, but with no distinct answers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 The whole lamp housing needs to be turned before you pull it out - about 5 or 10 degrees turn (anticlockwise if memory serves). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 There's a screw that you need to release before you can take out the lamp burner. As you're looking at the back of the lantern, have a look on the lower right hand side, just by the aperture that the lamp burner slots into - you should see a Pozi screw-head. Slacken that screw off (or do what many SL users do, remove it completely and throw it away!), and the lamp burner should then do the small anti-clockwise twist that Tony described and pull out of the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 (or do what many SL users do, remove it completely and throw it away!),You know, I have a feeling ours don't have screws in them..............:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewt Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Thanks a lot for the responses, the anti-clockwise turn did it (a lot of leverage needed!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougmorgan743 Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Handy Trick - If you need to get into the lamp burner to re-wire, allow some WD40 to seep down each screw holes on the top of the lamp burner. Otherwise you will prob want to chuck it out the nearest window! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 you will prob want to chuck it out the nearest window!Ain't that the truth! My boss doesn't like me rewiring SL lamp burners any more - I get too cross with them, and end up breaking too many drill bits! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy jackson Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 you will prob want to chuck it out the nearest window!Ain't that the truth! My boss doesn't like me rewiring SL lamp burners any more - I get too cross with them, and end up breaking too many drill bits! :P +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom the cry baby Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 iv been trying to open my strand sl for two years now! I finally got one open but cant get the rest open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trunker Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 I would rather use Brio's than SL's. At least you can change the lamps easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam2 Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 To add to the points above, if an an effort to access the lamp, any other screws have been mistakenly removed, take care that the lantern is still effectively earthed.It would be unforunate if the earth connection has been loosened or removed and is not replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis sullivan NLS Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 I have noticed on some of my stock of SL's, that you have to adjust the lamp field knob so the lamp burner moves the furthest out of the reflector before it will turn for removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth A Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Ha - when the SL's came out, at the strand launch, they gave a beautiful demonstration on how well the Strand's come apart. For cleaning, servicing, replacement of parts etc. ... Shame the demonstrator then could not get it to go back together again. . . We never did buy any strangely. ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjohnbcan Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 I found a machinist with a history of working on stage luminaires/lanterns to change sockets and rebuild bases. He made a jig to hold the base while the three self-tapping screws are removed. Due to the different expansion coefficients of the aluminium base and the steel screws the screws are extremely snug. Next the screw holes are drilled out and helicoil thread inserts are placed in the holes. Machine bolts are used to re-assemble the base. When the process is complete any future socket changes become straight-forward. CAVEATS: This is not an inexpensive process and it may be cheaper to toss the basses. I don't expect 100% return on the bases. Sometimes a screw will snap beneath the surface during extraction. The alumimum base material so soft that trying to extract such a broken screw is not practical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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