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Pearl 2000/2004 & Shutter Shapes


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Hello all,


Something I've been pondering for a while now.. Hoping the ones of us on here who are more knowledgeable about pearls will be able to help.


Shutter shapes on the pearl... to the best of anyone's knowledge there isn't any on there is there? If there is, where, in all my time of using them, I can't find them. If not, why not!


As I'm sure avo users know, there's some dimmer ones on there, but they never seem to be too effective IMO. i.e. they never make the fixture or dimmer channel go all the way out or come on at 100%.


Just would have thought that they'd have been included somewhere as I'd see them as being invaluable for ML programming/busking. Means if you want snap on and off's as opposed to dim (would eliminate the issue of dimmers not opening & closing as quickly as we'd like as well), that you have that option to use.


Hope everyone can understand what I'm after.



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One of the strange things about shapes is they work +/- 127 (at full size) around an origin. This makes perfect sense for pan/tilt but makes other attributes behave differently to expected.


So, in your example with dimmer shapes you should set lamps to 50% dimmer & 100% size (assuming fixture dimmer runs standard 0-100%) for a full fade open/close.


You can create your own shutter shapes should you wish. Open sg.dat on a pc and have fun understanding! There are two parts - patterns and shape definitions. The shapes are applications of the patterns, where only one pattern can be used per shape but with multiple attributes (with various offsets if necessary).


Think of patterns as plots on a graph in hex ranging from FF7F (-127 where ff denotes negative) to 7F (+127). Circle shape uses SIN pattern on both pan and tilt attributes with offset.


You can either create a new pattern & shape to suit or simply apply an existing pattern to the shutter attribute.


Check Avo Forum where I have discussed in more detail... somewhere!



All that said, I personally don't see a useful application for shapes on shutter. These channels tend to have all sorts in them - ie. various strobe speeds/random and maybe ramping effects. You wouldn't want to be fading between these. Surely simpler just to make a chase? Maybe useful as a workaround for not being able to use mode2 on chases. Hmmm...



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Hello Nic, didn't think it'd take long before you answered this!


So, in your example with dimmer shapes you should set lamps to 50% dimmer & 100% size (assuming fixture dimmer runs standard 0-100%) for a full fade open/close.
Just tried it, your right, works perfectly, just something I've never tried for one reason or another, before.


Had a go at making my own shape once. Didn't get too far before I went 'oh f**k it' hehe! I can see how you do it, just don't have the patience to do anything worth while.


Thinking about it, I suppose your right in regards to all the other crap that lives on shutter channels, just seemed like the easiest way of describing a shape that I could apply to multiple fixtures to make them go on & off, then just use the spread settings to make something pretty. Suppose something like on the Vista would be nice, where you select some fixtures, tell them to all go on and off, then stretch the trigger time across x number of seconds. Suppose I can do something similar with the dimmer shapes now though.


Well, I'm guessing that wraps that up, in all of 3 posts.. Thanks again Nic.



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To generalise a bit, one idea that is common to all lighting consoles that use Dynamic Effects/Shapes of some kind is that the effect runs around a designated "Centre" point - going both Up and Down from that point.


This makes perfect sense when using Pan/Tilt, but as soon you apply this idea to other parameters it can get confusing!


So to do a perfect Intensity effect, the centrepoint should almost always be 50%

If you leave the centrepoint as 0%, the effect will cycle between -50% and +50%

With a centrepoint of 100%, the effect will cycle between 150% and 50%


Obviously neither negative or >100% brightness makes any sense!


When doing CMY or RGB effects, the centrepoint makes a huge difference to the real output you get, and not always the way you'd expect!

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