dan slv-tech Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 Good afternoon, Just spent a few hours this afternoon, modifying a Alesis Midiverb 4, instead of the cost cutting, and pain in the arse external PSU, My unit now has a nice internal powersupply, which got me to thinking, has anyone made modifications to commercial kit, that frankly the manufacturer should have made in the original model, or indeed has anyone fixed shoddy engineering in a piece of kit? I spent £8 on a nice insulated/ shielded toridial transformer from RS and a fuse holder, bit of 1mm and a fuse holder, there was loads of room in the unit, quite why the unit doesnt have an internal PSU- cost most likley, Ayhow interested in any mods people have made Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 This was probably a manufacturing cheapest decision - if they supply internationally it's likely cheaper to have the same guts but provide a country specific wall-wart for the power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmills Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 This was probably a manufacturing cheapest decision - if they supply internationally it's likely cheaper to have the same guts but provide a country specific wall-wart for the power. Also, compliance with UL/CSA listing requirements for the American market is **MUCH** simpler with an external power supply that you can buy already so marked. I regularly modify kit to fix pin one problems, and have been known to do rather extensive 'repairs', which sometimes end with the repaired kit being rather dissimilar to the original. Things like the power connectors on spirit folios are a frequent target for replacement with something sane, but for the most part, I would rather spend the money on the right gear to start with and spend the time doing something more important. To the OP: You did make sure that there is no way the top panel of the case can touch the top flange of the toroid (thus creating a shorted turn via the bolt)? Regards, Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modge Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 the power connectors on spirit folios are a frequent target for replacement with something saneBUGS's noise boys did that also. very necessary. The notebook thingies (see I'm a lappie...) have the same shoddy connectors and as a bonus when the contector breaks it goes in to some sort of bizare fault condition causing it to scream like <<a thing that screams loudly and with a painfully choosern pitch>> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan slv-tech Posted January 14, 2007 Author Share Posted January 14, 2007 To the OP: You did make sure that there is no way the top panel of the case can touch the top flange of the toroid (thus creating a shorted turn via the bolt)? The transformer is encapsualted type, with plenty of clearance on the top for me to heatshrink the lugs of the transformerso yes, totally safe. Dan Moderation: Topic moved to General Tech Chat, why should you noise boys have all the fun? :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamplighter Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Just to be crystal clear. Dan is refering to the central mounting bolt of the toroid. This must NEVER be able to contact the lid of the unit as this would produce a very low impedence single turn short circuit with spectacular results.If the bolt does not appear through the transformer, the the risk is eliminated. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan slv-tech Posted January 14, 2007 Author Share Posted January 14, 2007 Just to clear up any mis-understanding or confusion, the toriodal transformer is encapsualted in a square plastic case (this is how it comes from RS) its designed to be soldered onto a PCB, but ive upturned it, glued it to the chassis and connected to the lugs of the transformer then heatshrunk the terminals, there is no electrical/galvanic connetion to the chassis. If someone is interested I can post a pic. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyweb Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 any one remember the 3G microline 1U mixers from a while ago, we have a few and we had to mod them as in manufacturing the toroidal shorted on the case as was mentioned above!! We have also modded the spirit folio's too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwh Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 [spirit Folios] have the same shoddy connectors and as a bonus when the contector breaks it goes in to some sort of bizare fault condition causing it to scream like <<a thing that screams loudly and with a painfully choosern pitch>>Bloody scary the first time you hear it though. Epecially when you've got an outdoor rig set up in an animal enclosure (don't ask) and your thoughts are split between "####, what's wrong?" and "Do any of these things get violent?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Riley Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Out of interest, when you're modding a folio, do you put an internal psu in like the op did with the midiverb, or do you just put a better connector on ? We've got a folio f1/14 somewhere which is on my to do list to fix and retest. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modge Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 We just used a better connector, I'd love to tell you what but I've forgotten. I'm thinking it was some sort of XLR, though I'm assuming not 3 pin, to prevent confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmills Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 I used some sort of Lemo, because it was in the junk box.4 pin XLR is also a reasonable choice, as are any number of small bayonet lock things. There is no space in there for an internal PSU, so I built one in a diecast box, which is a little more robust then the original wall wart. Regards, Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Light Console Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 When I bought some colour changers, I didn't spot that they were 3 pin XLRs, until they arrived on the day of a gig I wanted them for. At the time, I didn't have any spare 3 pin plugs knocking about, but I did have a 5 pin socket. So one unit was opened up, the 3 pin input was replaced with the 5 pin and away it all went. The bodge remains to be useful, although I have since added some 3 - 5 converters in my tool box. I also made my Strand MX a remote foot controller for chase on/off, step, and scene 1's bump button (an all up state). This allowed me to operate the follow spot and the sound desk at the same time as lights! Simply wired a switch in parallel to the pcb mounted one. Another favourite is global mute boxes for desks without mute or on buttons. So long as they have an insert point, it is possible to convert a printer selection box to short [tip to ring] or [screen to ring]. By wiring some backwards it has been possible in the local Church to select the band or lectern/Pulpit by turning a dial rather than moving 10 faders, making operation for them a breeze. No bangs when it switches either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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