TAFFY Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Hello. Does anyone know which filter is best to replicate daylight?. It is for art classes, they are currently just using the workers, which makes things appear much greener then they really are.Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modge Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Crucial point: are the workers florescent or tungsten or some thing else? - this makes a difference.To just get from tungsten to harsh, clinical, daylight use L201. (described as photographic daylight in the swatch book, I don't like using it on it's own as a daylight wash - I'm looking out my window and not seeing L201 right now) edit: Infact if things seem green then they're almost certainly floresent lights aren't they.....so L201 won't do the job properly, but not sure what will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAFFY Posted November 1, 2006 Author Share Posted November 1, 2006 There sodium things (not sure what they are, but they take ages to warm up) I was thinking of using some floods instead so maybe L201 would do the job. or maybe two floods in L201 and two open white to balance it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Some Bloke Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 I'd have said that if you were running them at full, 202 would be enough for tungsten (never mind the science, I'm going on looks!) but sodium light is particularly yellowy so 201 would be better. Either way, what's the point of mixing colours if you only want one colour? 2 in 201 and 2 in open white mixed together will give you something resembling 203 but patchy. Just choose a colour and use the same colour in all of them to keep it even. Best bet is to get a sheet of each and ask the artists what they prefer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 unless you are trying to mix artificial with real daylight, the actual colour temperature shouldn't matter too much - the critical thing is that the spectral field should be smooth. So any conventional colour temp from 3K to 6K should work and be within the eye/brain auto correct range. It will have an impact on the interpretation of colour, so most people balance for daylight. Discharge lighting has a really screwed up frequency response - huge spikes at certain frequencies, and not an awful lot at others - this wrecks colour rendition. If you want to check - look at what a video camera reveals, this will really show up the yellow/orange/green casts so you can see what is happening. Going to floods will be great, but really hot if you ramp up the quantities and wattages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmills Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 There sodium things (not sure what they are, but they take ages to warm up) I was thinking of using some floods instead so maybe L201 would do the job. or maybe two floods in L201 and two open white to balance it out. Sodium is a very obvious orange. I think what you have is mercury vapour from the description, whiteish, a few minutes to warm up and may buzz while they are warming? If so then treat as floro for colour purposes, something like a half or quarter minus green then a CTO maybe. Rosco have a handy chartHere. Regards, Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jifop Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 or get some HQI bulbs for them, are they directly swappable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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