Gazlights Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 Hey all! hope you are well... Just a quick question I have 6 mac 300's that I've been using and one of them has been periodically misbehaving......I cleaned it up and that seemed to sort the problem for a while. yesterday the colour stuck on one of them (the rest are fine) and when I change the colour the fixture wont go to open white.....everything else is working fine (pan/tilt/gobo/strobe etc..) if I pull it down can anyone offer me any advice on what to do to sort the problem? going to check for error messages when I log off now but there is definately something wrong with the colour function... not experienced this before and I'm pretty new to the job so any advice no matter how small would be appreciated! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saturnx21 Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 Hi It sounds to me like the sensor on the colour wheel is either misaligned or dirty.... hope that helps :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 Error messages are really useful in diagnosing these kinds of problems - let us know whether your fixture is displaying any. Is it just one of the colour wheels that 'sticks', or all three? Does it move around and refuse to calibrate to open white, or does it not move at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cknapper Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 yesterday the colour stuck on one of them (the rest are fine) and when I change the colour the fixture wont go to open white.....everything else is working fine (pan/tilt/gobo/strobe etc..) if I pull it down can anyone offer me any advice on what to do to sort the problem? going to check for error messages when I log off now but there is definately something wrong with the colour function...MMMmmm intresting Go-Bos in 300, I had the same problem Clean all contacts and make sure the sencors line up right, move them alittle at a time till the problem goes. This happens to ours because of the amount of Movment we move them. If this doesnt work swap this with another fixture. Carlos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitehousejamie Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I have found that re soldering the connections on the small sensor board is sometimes needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Frazer Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 MMMmmm interesting Go-Bos in 300, mac300 gobo's yes that would be interesting.... If you have replaced one of the colour wheels you will have to re-align the wheel so that the magnet is over the sensor when the motor is in a half step position.It is a little hard to explain if you don't understand how a stepper motor works but there is a procedure in one of the manuals that tells you how to do it. Let us know the error code and we will have a better understanding of what the problem is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippocrocaphant Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 If the problem persists ring Martin, they have a support line and will be able to take you through the procedure of finding the fault Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlights Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 Yea..yea...gobos in a wash light, I guess I was on another planet when I wrote that! haha :) Okay...checked the error messages, one fixture is flashing up with ShER (Short Error) and COER (Color wheel time-out) it kind of changes colour but its very dim and seems to be in purple/UV mostly. The next fixture is coming up with the error message of FbEP (feedback error Pan). looked in the manual and it details what the error messages are about but I cant find any documentation explaining how to sort these problems....I understand now I'm probably going to have to go on a maintenance course as soon as I hit the mainland! Not too much help when I'm in the middle of the carribean sea though... ;) Cheers for your advice anyways, I'll try to give Martin a call...its gonna cost me a fortune!! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3guk Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Try blowing some compressed air over every single sensor, have found that to solve all but 1 problems in the past!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlights Posted October 25, 2006 Author Share Posted October 25, 2006 Hey! cheers, I managed to sort them out....luckily it wasnt a serious problem they were just really manky.......gave them a good clean and after cleaning with a compressor they are both behaving normally.....a shard of glass from what must have been a previously exploded lamp was lodged in the colour wheel preventing it from moving....I guess the previouis light tech wasnt to up on his maintenance! even so I'm gonna have to get on a course.... :D cheers again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tokm Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 a shard of glass from what must have been a previously exploded lampIve always been taught you should never use a discharge lamp that long. Always swap out around, or nearish as possible the rated number of lamp hours, even if the lamp still strikes/works. You just never know when it'll go pop. Heard from a certain ML tech/board op that was on a certain west end show a few years ago, that a lamp in (the then, brand new mac2k performances) went pop and white hot glass came out the back of the unit and as this fixture was FOH it landed on some unlucky audience member. After that all lamps were strictly changed when they got to their rated lamp hours. Also, I remember we got sent some plates for our tourwashes at college that had to be fitted so that should a lamp blow up, the glass doesnt come out the back. Think I've heard other stories like the lamp ejecting out the back of the unit on some lights, not sure if that story was true.. Anyway enough scare stories about lamps going pop. Tom *edit - added more of the quote* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayselway Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 I saw one go, pretty fiercely, as they often do - but it wasn't actually the force that threw the glass out of the back of the head, it was the head keeping going that eventually tipped it out of a vent. :unsure: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tokm Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 tipped it out of a ventSounds like a reason why AC sent us those plates for the tourwash's! Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth A Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Currently using VL3000 Profile units, and though we try not to go over the rated hours, there were a couple of lamps that exploded, which took out the reflector, the lamp holder, the wiring loom the lot. Oh and these lamps only had about 50 hours on them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomo Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Currently using VL3000 Profile units, and though we try not to go over the rated hours, there were a couple of lamps that exploded, which took out the reflector, the lamp holder, the wiring loom the lot. Oh and these lamps only had about 50 hours on them!Sounds like either a manufacturing fault or a dirty lamp. A greasy lamp will burst almost immediately, and manufacturing faults can cause almost any mode of failure - I've seen a few lamps which snapped off at the ceramic, and several where the internal conductor welds came apart. Yet to see an actual lamp burst from manufacturing faults, but I'm sure they happen. Unfortunately the warranty doesn't cover the incidental damage - hopefully your insurance did! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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