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plastic 'glazing' for windows, any ideas?


bec

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Posted

hello all,

 

has anyone got an idea of a decent clear/ or opal type plastic which can act as 'glazing' which is Class 1 and not too expensive? even better if its not too difficul to cut and not too thick.

 

thanks,

 

bec

Posted
Assuming your 'glazing' does not need to be rigid, you can use lighting filter. Clear, colourless filter is probably what you're looking for, but there are various frosts that can also be used to good effect. Filter sheet sizes vary, but its easy to get hold of (say) Rosco E colour sheets at 48" x 21". Rolls are available at 25' x 48".
Posted

If this is to look like glass on stage but not to reflect, I have found standard fine window netting to be the best thing. Sounds crazy, but it works. Buy from the market or Dunelm, it's about 70p a metre, then simply staple tightly onto the reverse of the flat across the window opening, and bingo!

 

Looks opaque like window glass, but doesn't cause you reflection issues, but you can still see lighting effects and items through it.

 

Like this

 

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i20/felix-gogo/Camera033.jpg

(Though perhaps the patio doors could have had the net a tad tighter!)

 

PS, My set design and lighting. :P

Posted

thanks everyone,

 

there is a snag though.. my glass needs a 'bullet' hole in it with cracks emanating from it.. so I can't use a fabric, i.e. it has to be quite solid so it doesn't flap about when the windows are opened..

 

bec

Posted

How about plastic/polycarbonate(?) sheet, as used for greenhouse windows?

 

Available from B&Q and garden centres.

Posted
There used to be transfer of three bullet holes for putting onto car windows. Unless something has to go thru the hole draw one with some radial lines.
Posted
A friend of mine recently used polycarbonate sheeting, and also needed a bullet hole. What he did was to drill thorugh it and make it crack. Didn't look that good close up, but looked quite realistic at a distance, and was fine on a dimly lit stage. I may have some photos of it left on my camera, in whihc case I'll post them on here in the morning.
Posted

that sounds promising! do you know if polycarbonate is flame retardant? if not, what did your friend use to treat it? (that's if he did treat it ofcourse..)

 

Bec

Posted

I'm pretty sure that he didn't treat it. But looking on google, most manufacturers give fire ratings for their products. Most do seem to burn however, and so should have a retardant applied somehow. I wouldn't like to suggest how, as it could end with advice that shouldn't necessarily be followed being given. My best idea would be to find a solid sheet polycarb that you can get and then ring the manufacturers to ask their advice.

 

Also, I appear to have deleted the pictures from my camera and also form my computer, so sorry.

Posted

It's very difficult to burn polycarbonate - it's roughly comparable to hardwoods such as Oak and Beech according to the building regs, so it adds to the fire loading but not the risk of fire.

 

Some manufacturers add extra flame-retardants into the plastic mix - there are a few roofing products that are rated as being almost impossible to burn - they still melt, but the droplets won't burn.

 

However, acrylic and polystyrene are fairly flammable.

Fire-retardant and self-extinguishing varieties are available at extra cost though.

 

Please note:

You CANNOT treat plastics with fire retardants after manufacture, so you have to buy the right plastic in the first place.

 

corrected speeling erors

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