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Assistance needed with Trackspot

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Guest

Guest

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Hello all. I am new here but this website looks awesome, loads of good info!

 

Here is my situation. I am experienced in hanging and running moving lights but I am just getting into working on the guts and repairing them. I have a trackspot that is causing problems. The shutter does not home, when the rest of the fixture homes, the shutter twitches. I swapped the driver chip with another fixture and that did not correct the problem. I then swapped the main PCB and the problem followed the PCB to the other fixture. The original problematic fixture worked fine with a different PCB. so what is the next thing to try? Would the problem be in one of the other chips that can be replaced, or do I need to replace the whole darned board? Thanks for all of your help!

 

Rob

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jayselway Supervisor

jayselway

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:angry: to the Blue Room :(

 

I had a similar problem in a TrackSpot, but this time with the colour wheel. I had checked the driver chips, the wireset, and the motors, but to no avail - Couldn't narrow it down to anything particular, but a refurb'ed PCB sorted it nicely.

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Thanks for the help. It seems like this may be my only option. I have swapped every chip that can be swapped with no resoloution, but swapping out the entire PCB with one from another fixture did fix it. I was hoping I had missed something but I guess I have covered all the bases. Thanks again.

 

Where did you get your replacement/refurbished PCB? High End wants almost $450!

 

Thanks

Rob

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Light Tricks Regular

Light Tricks

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Hi,

 

You could try the 1 ohm resistors around the driver chip, they sit across each coil of the motor (i.e. there are 2 per driver chip) and sometimes go open circuit resulting in the problem you describe. If you can't spot them, they're normally standing upright on the pcb rather than laying flat and I think are 1/2 watt rather than 1/4 watt so will be physically a bit bigger. They normally fail at the same time as a driver so you might need a new driver chip too.

 

You need to check the resistors with a meter and make sure they read about an ohm.

 

I think you should be able to get a circuit diagram from the High End website, but if you need a bit more info then post back and I'll dig a diagram up here and let you know the places to poke the meter!

 

Regards,

 

Light Tricks

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Guest

Guest

Posted
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Hi,

 

You could try the 1 ohm resistors around the driver chip, they sit across each coil of the motor (i.e. there are 2 per driver chip) and sometimes go open circuit resulting in the problem you describe. If you can't spot them, they're normally standing upright on the pcb rather than laying flat and I think are 1/2 watt rather than 1/4 watt so will be physically a bit bigger. They normally fail at the same time as a driver so you might need a new driver chip too.

 

You need to check the resistors with a meter and make sure they read about an ohm.

 

I think you should be able to get a circuit diagram from the High End website, but if you need a bit more info then post back and I'll dig a diagram up here and let you know the places to poke the meter!

 

Regards,

 

Light Tricks

 

 

Light Tricks,

 

Just to make sure we are talking about the same resistor. The one I am looking at is R137 on page 14 of the schematic (ftp://ftp.highend.com/pub/Products/Trackspot/Schematic/Trackspt.pdf) 1ohm 1/2W 1% and just to make sure I am on the right track....

 

http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/8782/dsc40739kd.jpg

 

Also, the 4 screws holding the regulators onto the aluminum plate the PCB is mounted to will not come loose for anything. any tips on getting these buggers out? I cannot see replacing that resistor happening wiht these screws still in place ** laughs out loud **.

 

Thanks for your help.

Rob

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Light Tricks Regular

Light Tricks

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Hello,

 

Yes, I was clearly wrong about the 1 ohm resistors sitting across the motor coils!!! The 1 ohm ones are R137 and R139 ( You should check both ), and also check the ones that sit across the motor coil (!) which are R159 and R160 - both 1.5K.

 

You can do this by metering from pins 2 and 21 to ground for R137 and R139, and between pins 1 and 3, and pins 20 and 22 (with the motor unplugged from the socket) for R159 and R160. This means you can check them without removing the board. (all pin numbers are for IC3, the PBL3773 motor driver.

 

As for the screws on the SCRs, I'm afraid my only suggestion is to take the board out complete with the aluminium back plate, and then you can get to the back of the screw - there should be enough poking through for you to get a pair of mole grips on to try and persuade it to come out... if not then you have to drill them out. They're inclined to get stuck as the devices get pretty warm when the fixture's running, so the constant heat and cooling makes them seize... very boring.

 

Let me know how you get on...

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TNVS2 Part-timer

TNVS2

Posted
Posted
Hello all. I am new here but this website looks awesome, loads of good info!

 

Here is my situation. I am experienced in hanging and running moving lights but I am just getting into working on the guts and repairing them. I have a trackspot that is causing problems. The shutter does not home, when the rest of the fixture homes, the shutter twitches. I swapped the driver chip with another fixture and that did not correct the problem. I then swapped the main PCB and the problem followed the PCB to the other fixture. The original problematic fixture worked fine with a different PCB. so what is the next thing to try? Would the problem be in one of the other chips that can be replaced, or do I need to replace the whole darned board? Thanks for all of your help!

 

Rob

Rob. one of the current sensing resistors is O/Circuit. (the big bule ones paralell to the PCB socket). On the shutter driver.

Bit of a bugger to find nowdays, about 0.8 ohms. same as the length as a bit of solder about 3/4 of an inch. (hint!).

While you are at it, cut out the two diodes protecting the DMX, they are only rated at 5.8 v, and more trouble than they are worth, and will pull the DMX to ground at a tiny fault in the DMX.

Kris. ex-HES tech UK. (When trackspots were new, and cybers were a prototype)

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