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mrleemtl

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Posts posted by mrleemtl

  1. I want to have a shin (diagonal back), which slowly gets higher while lit. I am somewhat limited in terms of fly capacity as the flybars 'top out' at the ceiling - ie. not a true flyhouse with a tower.

    My best idea so far is a drop-pipe right to the floor, with a slightly lower trim than possible (3-4') which would give me a bit of space to get higher, but this is not ideal, especially since I will eventually be moving the show to another (lame) house with a flying grid system that makes a huge racket.. Additionally, I could only hide a lower trim flybar behind a border of about 4' high, and it would be great to be able to raise the projector about 3 meters (+/-10'). I do not want to see the flybar in front of the backdrop (cyc or otherwise to be determined)

    I might want the projector to be a mover.

    Anyone have thoughts?

    Cheers

    mrleemtl

     

  2. Hi,

    we are having difficulty finding the HTP vs LTP control option for submasters.

    Also, the 'do not release when go to cue' or do not release when a submaster is at '0' . 

    How to 'mix' subs of LED fixtures for example, so as to gradually fade from one to another, as opposed to a 'pop' from one colour to the next.

    How to change color temperatures, using subs, without losing the initial color activated on another sub...

    This is quite simple in most other consoles. Somewhat frustrating.. There does not seem to be a very elaborate 'show properties' menu.

    Does anyone know how to attack this?

    Thanks!

    mrleemtl

  3. Horizon had an easy way to do a "hard go to cue and run" macro.

    This ensured that if you had a long fade, followed by a blackout for example, you could hit your cue and the blackout would over-ride the fade if it was not complete.

    I cannot find this on the Strand Palette.

    I need to find a way to do LTP, for only one cue. Not for the entire cue list.

    Ideas?

    Easy enough on the ION: 'Assert' .

    Would love to find a solution, if you can help.

    Thanks,

    MrLee

  4. Hello,

    this is driving me crazy.

    How do I set the DEFAULT record cue mode to record MINUS sub?

    I know there is a soft key for this, but I want it by default, so as not to fire my house lights unwittingly into random cues.

    Thanks for this,

    mrlee

     

    Sorry about that,

    finally found it, under 'hardware options'.

    egad.

    Cheers*

  5. Indeed, the pictures on the website are surprisingly...candid. Maybe some frost or silk would help a bit. Also, getting further away that you might normally choose for a cyc fixture may help.

     

    Yes, the photo is certainly off-putting, but it is possible to program the bars so that all of the 'balls' are of the same color.

    I need to do white, basically, of different hues, and also a small strobe effect.

    I contacted the fabriquant today, and they assure me that each unit has a 30° spread up/down but also east/west from each edge of the fixture.

    Looking at doing a very close downwash retro(probably) given my available positions.

    I figure that from an actual distance between the fixture and the point of attack of approx. 2'2" I need at least 10.

    No info however about the near vs far throw, no close/medium/long internal setup that I know about for the actual LED's diodes (as opposed to say, Dalis by Juliat .. (too expensive)).

    I will possibly frost/silk them anyway,but I'm worried about a severe 'hotspot' where they contact the cyc, and nothing down below...

    Thanks for your interest.

    I would love to hear from someone who has actually used them.

     

    Are they garbage, or decent?

     

    mrlee

    PS. 'Candid' cracked me up!

     

    Love this site. People are very rapid with their responses. Cheers*

     

    I think the photo on the website supplied of the orange and green beams sums it up..

     

    Is a scalloped effect on the top or bottom of your cyc acceptable? It’s probably going to look “ok” in person but awful on video (cameras see light differently and pick up on subtle inconsistencies that the eye smooths out).

     

    Basically it’s just lots of small adjacent pars...

     

    How tall is your cyc?

     

    Please see my other response.

    I am washing a cyc 34' x 20' high, from a distance of about 2' away...

    No video, just a live show.

    I will try to attack the cyc above where the public can see it, so that the 'scallops', if there are, will be somewhat melded by the time they become visible.

    However,

    it certainly looks like some K-mart happy-time device, and the manual does not exactly reassure me.

     

    Cheers,

     

    mrlee

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