David Duffy

The DC fuse is likely used for mains and 24V operation. If it's anything like the TOA amps, the 24V DC input feeds into the rectified transformer supply via a separate diode. Here's how the TOA A500 series do it.

Looks like it would be minimum volume in the middle and loudest at each end with the phase reversed at the CW position.

Are these lights 240V natively, or do they have a power pack ?

If they are newer and have a power pack, it will likely be a SMPS type and will let the smoke out if dimmed.

3 hours ago, paulears said:

There's a racecourse near me that does 90 day terms, take it or leave it. Most leave it.

I would change my terms for them - to money up front !

Just a bump to make sure people know that MultiPlay has a forum these days: https://da-share.com/forum/

Although the v3 releases are still marked as beta, it's being used by a lot of people now.

New features and improvements are being done all the time.

That does defy all common sense. Surely the vents could have been at 90° to the mounts.

The v3 releases of MultiPlay are still marked as beta, but they are very good and stable overall.

https://da-share.com/forum/

As for hum / buzz / hiss / hash on a laptop audio out (or even via a USB audio interface), some laptop power supplies are just bad for it.

I've often used a 3.5mm isolation transformer when dealing with laptop audio outputs to fix it.

V3 can be downloaded from the last post of the beta release thread in the forum:

https://da-share.com/forum/

Firstly, are you using using the (really) old 2.5x version or the updated V3 ?

When you say the sound items are missing, do you mean the cues have a red X next to them? If so, it could be that the audio files have been moved to a new folder and just need to be relinked to the the cues.

You can also alter the linear taper somewhat by adding a resistor from wiper to the end (one per gang).

This article has more info: http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm

I'd be trying for a 500 Ohm pot, but that will be harder to find in dual gang.

Don't worry too much about the log taper as you may find a linear tape works perfectly fine in this application.

Agreed on the switching part of the equation. I would switch all 3 legs (L/R/G) of the headphone feed, not just the L/R.

As for the dual gang pot, what resistance values can you get?

Using leaded solder (63/37 is even better than 60/40) will make it easier too. Lead free solder has a higher melting point.

I've always used the ESTA standard with data on pins 1/2 and common on pins 7/8.

As for T568A / T568B, it makes no difference as it's just the data pair colour that changes. Common will always be the brown pair.

I've made RJ45 - XLR cables with both schemes and as long as you check the 1/2 pair colour it's not an issue.

The buck and boost terms are not just USA. They usually refer to a switching converter with inductor. While "step down" and 'step up" are also used for those types of converter, you need to be careful. Some "step down" units are simple linear regulators which won't have the 90 odd percent efficiency of a buck converter. All "step up" converters however will be "boost" switching types as that's the only way it can work.

It would be a lot of work rewiring higher voltage strings to 12V.

 

What about using a boost converter? You can get ones that will go from 12V to 18V-36V (adjustable) with reasonable efficiency.

Yes, MultiPlay V3 will load V2 productions and prompt you to save in the new format. :)

Yes, MultiPlay V3 has had lots of beta releases over the past couple of years that are quite usable.

Another vote for 2 pair data cable.

Ahhh.. my bad. I misread the post completely!

 

It could be hard to track down that fault without service info.

Is the popping from both HF and LF drivers or just one?

A common cause of a stuck (on) channel is a shorted TRIAC.

I use 63/37 alloy solder which is even nicer to use than 60/40 alloy. Not a lot of people sell it these days, but Digikey and Mouser do.

Could it be that the DMX signal timing on the "bad" console is not the same as the "good" console and the fixture is not tolerant of the difference?

A USB audio interface and a pair of isolating transformers will give you a better and more repeatable result I've found. The 3.5mm jacks on laptops and PCs alike can be somewhat finicky.