CPlater1

I have one of the Mikrotik Metal 52ac, that can be configured using the Mikrotik WinBox utility, or by web page. I configured mine initially using WinBox.

I'm already watching those ones, but thanks for the heads up. I figured it would probably come down to having to buy complete fixtures.

I have 4x Selecon Acclaim profiles, 2x Axial, and 2x Zoomspot that are all 16-34. This is a little too small for one of the venues they get used in, so I would need 24-44. Does anyone know if replacement lens trays are available, and if not, what lenses would need to be used to convert them?

 

Many thanks

To add photos, use a site like imgur, and copy the link.

Does GIMP have the same issues?

Looking at some places on the net, firmware V4 should be out imminently, along with a new version of X32 Edit. I don't get why they've removed previous versions from their website though!

Depends if you want to do Stick/arc (SMAW) MIG (GMAW) or TIG (GTAW) and how much you want to pay. For stick welding, the inverter units are pretty good (at least those I have used) and they are easier to move. There are some multi process units out there made by companies like ESAB, but I think they will likely be quite expensive.

 

In terms of the ease of use, MIG is almost like hot glueing stuff (I know there is more to it than that, but it is an easy one to learn.) Stick can take a while to get used to striking arcs, then holding the rod at the correct distance from the work piece, all while moving along and in as the rod gets used up. With practice, you do get used to all of that.

 

In terms of accessibility, I think stick is the easiest, as you just need the rods, welder and work piece, the others require gas.

 

At work I use a little Jasic 180A inverter, but with the general welding I do, I would be unlikely to go over 120A, it's just nice having the extra little bit of headroom, which can also improve duty cycles.

 

ETA: At Wellington Welding, you can get a Jasic 140A inverter stick welder, which runs on 230V, for just shy of £200

I have Red5 Audio RV215A and RV210A active speakers, both of which sound pretty good for the price. I haven't been able to test them against any well known brands, but never had any complaints from them!

1/4" UNC for most cameras

My stock of lanterns is predominantly Acclaims, though with profiles I do have 2 Zoomspot, and 2 Axial, so they have different output.

That's why I absolutely loved watching The Mousetrap (tour) last week. Apart from practicals, the lighting is hidden, which was quite refreshing!

https://www.stage-electrics.co.uk/shop/sales/lighting/lights-and-accessories/theatrical/par-and-pinspots/product.aspx?code=481-0665&nr=true

 

 

Down in price these days to ~£150 (inc VAT) as they are "last generation" but I've got a bunch of these for use in an amateur context and I like them (in so much as what they are).

 

RGBWA (no "UV"), not COB. Fanless. No barndoors.

 

Stage Electrics are up the road from you near Cribbs Causeway.

 

How bright are these? I am tempted by the price for my amateur work.

3 beltpacks fully boxed, 2 where I need to file the front plate slightly for the push button, 1 where I messed up drilling the holes for my beltclips, so just need to sort those little issues then I will have my set of 6 ready to play! The fun part will then be the whole sidetone adjustment etc, where I might use my Behringer CT100 to provide a -10dbV test tone unless my ebay ordered signal generator kit arrives!

So I may need to rewire some y-splits if I go that way, or if I get M-2F it may work. I didn't do much with the 3d printing as Kevin had some of the proper caps so I used them. The tolerances on my 3d printer were off and I didn't feel like spending so long getting them dead on.

Just a quick update, waiting on 5x 10k pots then I will have my set of 6 up and running!

 

Had a few teething problems with a quick test on them, had 2 resistors swapped in the PSU, which caused different amounts of gain on each loop, also had a SMPS from eBay that introduced a fair bit of whine into the system. Purchased a new SMPS and now it's virtually silent!

 

Now I have to work out how I'm going to use these on temporary installations, I would either run xlr in/out to each beltpack and tape the 2 cables together to make it nice, or I'm considering buying some xlr y splitters then just one cable to each beltpack - I'm tempted as this would require less cabling! Would this second option work?

I'm planning to start building tomorrow! I've got the PSU components all ready in a bag for when I get home from work. Mhmm solder fumes :)

Just run a couple of trial 3d prints, now I need a switch to try them on, but it is an easy 10 min print for each cap, and hopefully will fit lovely!

I'm looking at 3d printing the switch caps, may be an option.

They're easy to strip and rebuild.

 

Take the screws out of the front ring and remove it.

 

Undo the front plate and remove it (note the orientation otherwise alignment can be iffy)

 

You're now down to the PCB with the LEDs and Lenses. Undo the 4 screws and disconnect the cable.

 

This is as far as I went, but I don't think going further would be too difficult.

 

HTH

 

Chris

Is anyone looking at making these? I'm definitely interested in getting some PCBs made up.