David Morison

I think you need to think about matrices differently - effectively they come after the master fader, so one matrix could never control several outputs. Rather, your master fader is still the master, then the matrices tailor the level for each discrete zone you want to send to. If you have 5 zones, the master could feed one then each of the 4 matrices could feed the other 4 zones. This is still a little clunky, as if you wanted the main zone up without increasing the 4 remaining zones, you'd have to reduce the level of the 4 matrices simultaneously. If you can live with just 4 zones in total, then not using the master out to feed a specific zone will get around that. The master fader would still be available as a global volume control though. HTH, David.

These have a slight plug/unplug click, but do true stereo: https://cpc.farnell.com/av-link/122-430uk/usb-c-to-3-5mm-digital-adaptor/dp/AV29914

Pot(s) should be wired from 2-1 and 3-1, not between 2 & 3, right? Presumably, when turned all the way down, the current arrangement is effectively shorting pins 2 & 3 of the input device together, which shouldn't be a problem for decent equipment but could make some devices rather unhappy if they don't have suitable over current protection on their outputs.

Only if you lump Central America in with North America, which isn't that common.

Hi Simon, Not an X32 user here but I know the LAB has a lot of info - a quick browse turned up [url=https://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/topic,145480.0.html]this thread[/url] suggesting sheilded CAT5e is indeed the way to go. HTH, David.

Invoices should be paid within 30 days of receipt. IME, it's more normal to send the invoice on completion of the work, unless otherwise agreed at time of booking.

@DrV; a quick image search yields this: I've no affiliation or knowledge of the seller and for all I know there may be others. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402905366964

Scene Memory would be where to start - p42 in the small Owners manual, p83 and following in the larger Reference manual. PS, depending on just how unfamiliar you are with noise kit, reviewing the input and output patching sections so you can make sure the audio gets where it needs to may also be worthwhile.

The only thing I'd add to the above is to consider how likely unauthorised interference may be after you've set your preferred levels. If there's any chance at all of a "well meaning" muso or similar monkeying with the amps, then I'd make sure they're set to max so that at least there won't be any unwanted increases in volume. That does mean accepting the penalty of potentially less convenient master levels out the desk (if no DSP in between) unfortunately.

Hi Keith, that frequency response curve appears to assume the 60Hz filtering is in place. The higher settings do extend it out appropriately so if the 932's happened to sound better with a 100 or 125Hz crossover, there shouldn't end up being a hole in the response. Fortunately RCF do publish an Ease GLL file for this - I've extracted the FR curves for each setting here: HTH, David.

Well, you can ignore the Cardioid set of presets as you're only using one box - they are used when combining (usually) 3 boxes in a certain way to reduce LF spill backwards from the PA. As for the others, it's really a matter of taste - get them set up at a practice and try them out for yourself. A couple of general thoughts do occur though... 1: using the Extended Low presets may give the perception of more bass even at more modest volumes, but it also uses up a bit of headroom - so if you're trying to run quite loud, this would be counterproductive. It's likely to result in the tops outrunning the bass bin given your 2:1 ratio of boxes - again, if you need to run loud. 2: the higher the crossover frequency you select, the more work the bass bin does and the less work your tops do - if you were really trying to max out the volume you can run at and still keep the tops nice and clear sounding, you'd probably get slightly better result using the higher crossover therefore. However, for small to medium wedding gigs, I'd imagine you're not likely to be pushing the rig hard enough to need to worry about that. 3: remember to run your mixer's L & R outs into the bass bin first, then jump up to the tops, so that the crossover between the 2 is correctly handled - otherwise your tops are going to try and play the whole spectrum including the low end. HTH, David.

Yup, those inputs will work as you propose. Bear in mind they're unbalanced, which shouldn't be a problem if you can get your Qu-SB close to the PA12, but might allow slightly more noise pickup in the cabling if you have to run a long distance from Qu-SB into the PA12.

Are the current speakers & the subs you hope to add active boxes (amps built in to the speakers) or passive (ie external amps in a rack somewhere)? Assuming passive, then you'll need a crossover of some sort to split the signal going to the sub amps and the main amps. That crossover should have at least a switch to flip the polarity, or if it's a digital system processor, it'll have the option to add any delay needed and possibly directly manipulate phase depending on how advanced a unit you use. Assuming active speakers, then they usually again have at least a polarity switch built in.

And if you are in the UK... https://www.interspa...pathway-44.html The link I provided was for Amazon UK, do they not ship to the UK? Mac

@OP: How are you effecting the crossover parameters for your subs? Y-splitting the signal from your desk straight into the sub amps as you'll be doing with that Behringer unit doesn't give you any control over what signal goes to them, so they'll try to reproduce lots of mids as well as the bass range. That means they're overlapping much of what your C6's should be doing, which might give extra volume but will almost certainly rob you of clarity. A proper loudspeaker management system AKA DSP unit will allow you to set a proper low pass filter for them so they don't overlap the mains, improving sound quality and reducing the load on the bass drivers and amps. The D&B amp will already be able to do the relevant filtering so the C6's don't see all the sub info, so even a simple unit like This should be enough for you to manage the subs. HTH, David.