adamantiumxt

Thanks both! Yes, I am using Le Maitre fluid, it's definitely very viscous. I think I'll give Le Maitre a call about the clicking and see what they say.

Thanks for that, I've had a go at priming it, which I might have helped a bit - though the clicking still seems too loud for my liking.

I've uploaded a video of it's operation below (this is running at full haze output, with minimal projection). Does this seem normal?

Thanks again!

I've spent the day trying to get an MVS Hazer I was told was 'broken' back to a working state, and after cleaning out the main tube I'm mostly there.

However, a few problems remain - for a start, I'm unsure if the output is as high as it's supposed to be when on full, and when running it seems to go through 2-3 second cycles of putting out stronger bursts of haze. From looking at videos online, that is somewhat normal, but I think on my unit it seems to be to a much greater extent. I can try and get a video tomorrow to demonstrate and perhaps someone with more experience of these machines can weigh in 😅.

The other issue, which I suppose might be linked to the above, is that the main fluid pump makes a loud clicking noise (every 3.3 seconds with the haze output on full, or 15 when on the minimum setting). Previous threads suggest that this could be a sign of a pump running dry, but I have checked that there tubes around it are full of liquid, as well as running it for 20-30 minutes to allow the smaller air bubbles to be pumped through. Would it be worth taking the pump out and checking the valves are all clear?

Thanks

Another (cheaper) option rather than the ATEM could be a HDMI KVM switch (ignoring the USB ports), which generally should switch between inputs seamlessly as they emulate the display being connected to both devices. They do claim to work with HDCP, but probably worth buying somewhere with good returns anyway!

Not expecting, much but I just saw this petition on Facebook, Government to offer economic assistance to the events industry during COVID-19. Might be worth signing.

Maybe someone with more experience will chime in, but I think you can use the RGB decoders to control three separate white strips - after all, the controller doesn't know what colour it's driving, and just provides 3 channels of DMX control - that would still require many decoders, though it looks like you can buy decoders with many channels such as https://www.amazon.co.uk/Channel-Decoder-Controller-Dimmer-DC5-24V/dp/B075FHJM35.

I've had a look for the models Brian mentioned, they're at the end of https://bellman.com/documents/technical-information/technical-solutions-en.pdf.

It appears as though there's two elements, a SCART to DIN speaker out unit that goes into the TV, then the induction loop itself which connects via the DIN speaker cable.

As the SCART unit also provides amplification, it would probably be best to keep it, maybe using a toslink to analogue adapter like this, then an RCA to female SCART adapter to be able to use the original unit. My only concern is that I'm not sure if the RCA to SCART adapter would provide the audio into the necessary pins. Any thoughts?

Hi everyone

 

In the interests of open sourcing, and after a few messages from Blue Room members, I've decided to make my 3d printed battery cover files available to all.

They can be found here;

https://www.thingive...m/thing:3291305

 

Please note that this cover works really well on my own printer (Prusa i3 Mk2s) but I've very much tweaked the tolerances to get a good result out of my own machine. Hopefully any you print should work too, but I can't guarantee it, and I'd definitely suggest just making one at a time to start with.

I've been printing mine from PLA but am going to try some in ABS sometime soon. PLA can be a bit slippery (like nylon) so they still ping open a bit too easily (I always tape all my battery doors shut anyway - always have).

 

Will definitely make use of this, but have a question. How do you remove the original broken cover? I've tried prying up different parts of the metal element the cover is on, but to no avail.

Is there any simple way to connect an external device like a sound desk headphone or recording output to the system, so that everyone can monitor audio to a certain amount?

Also is there a way to get an aux out so that the whole conversation can be monitored by others without an entire beltpack system eg for calling actors from backstage usign any basic speakers