simondeskuser

Hi Simon

 

I am unsure as to what you refer to when you say board dimmers..??

 

When in SUBMASTER mode, all the faders become submasters. The only active ones for use will have an amber led lit. If it does not have an amber led, it possess no information or is empty.

 

When in SINGLE mode, all the faders become channels.

 

If you are moving between different modes and a fader is up, the contents of the fader will not change until you fade it to zero.

This goes for when you move out of the SUBMASTER mode and the SINGLE mode if a channel fader is up and you enter the SUB mode, the channels will remain live until you bring the fader to zero.

 

Think of each fader as either a channel or a submaster. The dimmer terminology is confusing the issue.

 

If you are referring to the A/B faders at the bottom centre of the desk, best to make them at full. A should be at the top and B should be at the bottom (full!)

 

Clear as mud!

 

Eamon

 

Hi Simon

 

I am unsure as to what you refer to when you say board dimmers..??

 

When in SUBMASTER mode, all the faders become submasters. The only active ones for use will have an amber led lit. If it does not have an amber led, it possess no information or is empty.

 

When in SINGLE mode, all the faders become channels.

 

If you are moving between different modes and a fader is up, the contents of the fader will not change until you fade it to zero.

This goes for when you move out of the SUBMASTER mode and the SINGLE mode if a channel fader is up and you enter the SUB mode, the channels will remain live until you bring the fader to zero.

 

Think of each fader as either a channel or a submaster. The dimmer terminology is confusing the issue.

 

If you are referring to the A/B faders at the bottom centre of the desk, best to make them at full. A should be at the top and B should be at the bottom (full!)

 

Clear as mud!

 

Eamon

Hi Eamon

A while ago you offered me help to get started on Strand 200 desk. You guidance was very useful and helped me to set up for the show I had to light, and which was successful, so thank you so much. I found on another desk that there was a "lock up" to prevent user settings being input, but that has been sorted locally - I have no idea how or what was done - not my area at all.

BUT your help was greatly appreciated.

Kind Regards

Simon (simondeskuser)

Hi Eamon

I think I must get on the desk before making any more queries, as it is then I think that I will know what is what, and may be able to use more correct language when if I contact you.

I am most grateful for your patience! So, bye for now.

Kind regards, Simon

Moderation:

Simon - as a new member, you won't be aware we only tend to use quotes for important bits from previous posts, and we don't quote the entire thing - it makes it difficult to follow and on phones and tablets it's a lot of swiping! It's also quite rare to use bigger text for the same reason, so I've removed the quotes as they're not needed as it's responses to each other - and I've returned it to the usual size, getting rid of the size 4 tags. We're a bit 'quaint' sometimes, but big quotes drive people mad! Paul

Hi Eamon

Thanks for your prompt reply.

I'm not sure you have answered my query, but that will be because I wasn't clear enough in making it.

When one is in SUBMASTER mode, does it matter where the board dimmers are or should they be set at 0 or 10 to run any recorded scene? In effect, are they cancelled out as a setting (whatever their level) once the bump button is in use?

I only ask this as I haven't access right now to the desk. I have made a request to get on it next week (all so complicated when the hall is a public hall in regular use, etc, etc).

Anyway, thanks again. I am feeling better about the possibilities as a result of your efforts so far!

Kind regards, Simon

Hi Eamon

Thank you very much for your reply. I don't have immediate access to the desk, but am following your directions carefully, compared with my manual to see why I found it unhelpful to a complete newcomer.

That said, it doesn't make clear how to run the show which I don't want to run on timers as the cast cannot be relied on (or expected to perhaps is fairer) keep to the same timing for all sorts of reasons you will be aware of with your experience.

If you can spare a little more time, will you tell me how to select "the next set up scene lighting" which I will have recorded so that I can get the different dimmer settings to fade next in and previous out? I am also wondering what to do with the dimmers setting - once programmed and ready to go, should they be parked at 0 or 10 or doesn't it matter?

I expect I am asking an obvious couple of questions, but as I haven't got the desk to use at the moment I cannot find out at the moment.

The show is a complicated one for me - although it has relatively few lights for each scene, the scenes are not separated by curtains or blackouts exactly. You may well know the play and the problems I am expecting - it is Aykbourn's Mr A's Amazing Plays, where the audience chooses the scene order as the play proceeds.

Thank you very much for your help so far. I really appreciate it.

Kind regards, Simondeskuser

As a new lighting man - sometimes on, sometimes off, to fit in with Society needs - I am struggling to make sense of the early model Strand 200 lighting desk manual. The language used in the manual is not very clear to my way of thinking. DOES ANYONE know of a YouTube or other film demonstrating just how to RECORD and RECOVER (use) a sequence. When the actual production is due, I will have very little time indeed to prepare the actual plot, equipment access being allowed at 'last minute' only, and need to learn to use the desk efficiently if possible beforehand. Any help would be gratefully received.

simondeskuser

Chances are the tape has a 4 way 0.1" pitch connector on it that goes into the IR controller. As musht said, it can go straight into a 3 channel DMX controller. It can then appear as a RGB 8b fixture or three dimmers for R,G,B.

 

You'll need to supply 12V to the controller - you can butcher on a connector to the supply that you got with the tape.

Thank you for your help.

DMX LED Driver is the item you need, something like

 

https://www.amazon.c...V/dp/B07BDJF4HS

 

Goes in place of your WiFi controller cut the connectors off and put them on corresponding screw terminals, chop up an XLR lead to get the DMX in and out.

Thank you. I will need to take further advice on the connections you describe as I am new to this Lighting and not an expert.

It has a simple WiFi controller, but it didn't work over the distance of the lighting control area to the stage area, where it was further masked by scenery. I have so far plugged it into the mains with an extension back to me to make it work, but it has a mini delay turning on and off. Sounds like it's not going to be workable!

Is there any alternative arrangement / type of LED strip that I can use? Basic white would be quite adequate.

Thanks for quick reply. I will not be plugging into dimmer again! Decided! My order details areEMMETT KIT SET IP65W/RGB 5M

I hope that's what you want to see. If something missing I'll need to get back to you as kit is in Hall store at the moment (My Strand 200 is the old/first version, not new).

I did a post two years ago and was then taken of the lighting desk to go back on stage! Now I am back on lighting, I think more permanently, so hope I didn't upset anyone who tried to help me.

I have now been asked to use an LED lighting strip as an effect, but cannot get the Strand 200 to control it, or even recognise it.

If connected to the dimmer it switches on immediately and use of dimmer has no effect on it, even when dimmed off. What do I need to do (is there another piece of kit required) OR is there a particular LED specification I need to enable control?