skinda0

40 minutes ago, Martin Lepley said:

Like the idea of trantec. In my solution, I would like a selection of CH70 and CH38 though, so for simple productions we will use the 4 free channels, and in productions where we have more characters singing (not at the same time) they can have extended in to CH38.

 

Just a thought, if you were using the CH38 kit for larger shows, you would have the licence for the whole year or 2 no?

Would it then just be worth running all 38 kit, then if you need to expand at late notice you always have licenced channels to cover it? as @sleah said, I would feel more comfortable having more channels than required, just to ease the possibility of mixed mics.

I have had the same experience with some of the Sennheiser Freeport mics and the iPad rest on the Allen & Heath QU desks. A bit of IPA and it removes the sticky 'soft touch' layer and takes it back to the base plastic. This was a while ago now and I have seen no degradation to the plastic.

Yes I realised that apologies. If someone wants to take the lot I certainly will! 🙂 

Hi All,

I have some kit for sale that has been hanging around on some shelves.

Crown XLS 602 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185391243681

Audiohead AH1800 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185391243770

AMX Netlinx NI-3100 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185391243515

AMX NXT-CV10 Touch Screen - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185391243592

Citronic CX34 crossover 3 band stereo - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185391244511

Open to any offers on items. I can also post most of them, although the amps may be a bit heavy.

PM for details, thanks!

Isopropanol Alcohol can remove the layer on the outside, but will take it back to shiny plastic. Had to do the same with some car interior parts that had gone sticky.

It's not got a DMX polarity switch has it? The wireless adapters may be clever enough to flip it at the other end.

Although reading through the rest of the trouble shooting it sounds like this may not be the cause.

Could it be these cans are a bit finicky about line termination and the wireless drivers are terminating sufficiently?

Although I may have completely the wrong end of the stick

I had a similar issue selecting an adaptor for truss, I eventually settled on two of these My link in conjunction with my pair of Doughty wind up stands.

I liked the look of these over the Doughty adapters as the centre of mass was kept over the top of the stand rather than off to one side, albeit by 100mm or so.

 

The Doughty stuff is built very well, and as Sleah says, if it wasn't safe they wouldn't sell it!

I placed an order Friday morning, as soon as I placed it I went to check on my orders as the site seemed a little slow processing the order.

The webpage then went to the 'we have a problem' page and said it was down for maintenance.

 

Seems like it is back to normal now, but CPC and Farnell seem to have always had issues with their web hosting.

I am looking to do something similar at a small theatre that is having their equipment upgraded.

As it is all volunteer run, I was hoping to keep a more user replaceable lamp in the footlights.

 

Mikelectricstuff sells a trailing edge dimmer suitable for LED lamps on his White Wing Logic website that can be used to dim 8 or 16 channels of mains LED lamps. Might be another possible solution to your problem? My link

They only do a max of 115W of LED per channel but for my purposes 1 channel would cover all of them!

 

I was thinking of ELV as well but finding an off the shelf solution seems to be more difficult. Interested to see your ideas!

PCBShopper may be a good website to look at. Compares most of the inexpensive PCB suppliers. My link

 

Other than that, I mainly use JLC for very small batches of PCBs. They usually come out cheapest, but I haven't ordered any for a little while.

Although maybe not the best thing for the job, I have used the 4 colour starquad cable before. The smaller 4.8mm size stuff may be ok for your needs. I used it with DT109s and one of the inserts just about fit the cable in the headset connector.

The zip file does not come in the correct file structure which is why it says "USB NOT READY"

if you format the structure as follows it should work.

 

If it is a 12/24 the folder it is going to start looking for is STR20024

 

\STR20024\DMXBASE\

 

Just to resurrect this thread as it helped me out!

 

I had a similar problem with the Showtec Jewel series desks.

 

The files that can be downloaded from strand can be used on this desk, but the folder structure needs to be changed so the showtec recognises it.

 

For the Showtec Jewel 512 1248 folder structure is:

\STEX1248\DMXBASE\

etc.

 

For the Showtec Jewel 512 2496 folder structure is:

\STEX2496\DMXBASE\

etc.

 

Just in case anyone else runs into this problem, thought I'd document it.

Just got a reply back from the UK sales people at Highlite. Basically said the only info we have available is on the website, which is nothing really!

 

Mine didn't come with a VGA card but I asked, and they don't have any. Probably won't need it but I'll keep an eye out for one as it may come in useful.

From past experience with HighLight/ShowTec kit - don't worry about newer firmware, the update cycle for ShowTec used to be very long for their smaller desks like this.

 

There probably never was a manual for the 512-2496 either as it's just likely that the size of the desk was doubled from 12 to 24 channels & from 48 fixtures to 96 (or something like that). The software looks a bit like the Strand 200 plus & stands a decent chance that the two share a software core (this happens a lot with Chinese imports) & perhaps some internal hardware if you catch my drift?

 

Did you eMail HighLite in the UK or Holland? I usually had better results when I dealt with Holland but even back then - software/manuals support was always patchy because they were simply dealing with materiel sent them from the chinese factory - so I wouldn't expect much.

 

If it's working - it will go forever but it's very unlikely the software will evolve.

 

Hi Ian,

 

Thanks for the information. Downloaded a copy of the Strand 200 Plus manual and yes, a lot of those buttons and programming methods look very familiar! It has much better documentation than the showtec so I am hoping I can just use that manual instead

 

I used the contact form on their website so not sure who it goes to, but never got a reply! Looks like I have what I need for the moment though, cheers!

Hi Folks,

 

I was recently given a Showtec Jewel 512-2496 lighting desk. I have had a look online and found a manual for the smaller variant, the 512-1248, but I have not been able to find any info on the larger one.

I am assuming most of the stuff in the manual will be identical but does anyone have any documentation or firmware files they can share?

 

It seems Highlite have no info on it, apart from that it is discontinued!

I have sent them an email but not heard back from them yet.

 

Thanks!

Meanwhile, back on topic, how did others get on this year?

 

The illumination event at our local church that I mentioned previously seemed to go down very well. Had quite a few people out on their evening stroll come and have a look and take a few photographs.

Everyone was very compliant with social distancing in the churchyard but there were only a few family bubbles there at any one time. Even got a story on the local news website! Sounds like I may have the job for next year.

This year we were planning (pre-lockdown) to light up our local church in red for the 11th, and as now the regular remembrance services have been cancelled in favour of a smaller gathering, I was thinking that this would be a fitting tribute. I am struggling now though to find any information as to whether this could still go ahead now a lockdown has been introduced? The event wouldn't have been advertised as a 'switch-on' anyway so crowds wouldn't gather.

 

Has anyone else had similar conversations recently that may shed some more light on the situation?

I have had a pair of Yamaha AX15W subs sitting in the corner not being used for a few years now. They need to go to a new home!

 

They are in really good condition, I have only used them a handful of times since I have owned them.

 

I have got them up for £200 on eBay, so I'll do a blue room discount for around £150 for them.

 

I am just outside Sittingbourne Kent

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have a pair of Fostex T50RPMK3. They are classed as semi-open, but the vent is so small I'd call them closed back. Sound great and fit in your budget.

 

HiFi Guides is a good place for comparing headphones.

I have just had this same problem! Ordered a few cable side C15A from Ian Dennis last year but he has run out now. Seems to be that leads direct are one of the few suppliers at the moment.

Placed an order for a few of these: https://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/shop/iec-c15a-socket-rewireable/

Anyone know at what point the 100% discount gets applied? Being a bit of a miser I'm reluctant to lay out $395 for a personal copy of software my theatre already uses.

 

Looks like you just have to use the code on the homepage and apply it to your cart to get the discount.

I did think the RF clipping may be a possibility. The LD MEI ONE only has an RF LED which is lit when connected and not when it drops out. Would be much easier to diagnose if there saw a signal strength indicator! Thanks though.

I have no direct experience but they don't look promising.

I'd take either the LD or the Trantec ahead of it.

Have you any idea why you were getting problems with the other systems? Dropouts might be due to clashes with other systems rather than an inherent flaw with the kit. The Trantec in particular is decent quality and not one that I would expect to be inherently troublesome.

My own preference is Sennheiser, and when I've been out playing myself, it's most often an elderly G2 system on Channel 70 that I end up using. I can't remember a single dropout, in a variety of hotels and other venues.

 

Unfortunatley we don't have the trantec anymore, but I seem to remember it had a lot of distortion on the headphone output even with a very low input signal. I played around with the gain and compressor settings but never got it clean, so it was sold and the LD purchased as a replacement.

The only other wireless device we have, apart from the guitarists (think its a Shure GLXD16) , is a Senny G3 handheld.

 

Reviews suggest you would need to keep the IEM transmitter & guitar receiver a long way apart at the desk. I had been going to suggest looking at the LD U308, but you seem to be having problems with LD.

 

So the guitarist pack RX is connected to the amp and I either mic or DI the cab. He is usually positioned in the opposite corner to the lead vocal.

I'm not sure why we are expericncing these dropouts. Sometimes you can be meters away from the unit and it works fine, he has tried it at home and was able to walk all over the house with no issues. Other times it can drop out all the time and you can be ontop of the TX!

 

I generally mix from the side of a stage and use an iPad to go out front. This does mean that both the Senny RX and the LD TX are both fairly close to the singer. I may try moving it all further away and see if there is a change. We have a gig this saturday and I have a FOH position so I should be able to play around a bit.

Our lead singer has wanted to try to get into IEMs for a while now and used to own a Trantec IEM5000 which had issues so replaced it with a LD MEI ONE.

We have never been able to get it to work reliably and always had dropouts wherever it has been placed.

 

I stumbled upon the XVive U4s today Linky and wondered if anyone has used these? They are digital and our guitarist uses a Shure digital wireless pack and has only had one issue with droupouts at one venue that is known for poor 2.4GHz performance. I'm hoping these will perform better than the LDs currently are.

 

Cheers

Dan

When I move the various components I want the conductors joining them to automatically redraw - hopefully also aligning to the X & Y so conductors are not on the wonk.

 

Microsoft Visio has a 'connectors' feature that draws a line that is fixed to two objects. Also shows jumps when going over other connectors.

 

It would just be a case of drawing all the components. I have a database of connectors and components I have drawn up over the years.

Mainly D-Types, a few IEC, CEEForm, and D-size neutrik stuff, bannana plugs and sockets, and the 400A Powersafe cable connectors. But is is quick to draw or trace new stuff.

 

Hope this helps!