EventMan

Hi Rob

Sadly, this version has the captured leads. 

Thanks, Bruce; that video was just what I needed, and I have now managed to dismantle it.

Now, if anyone could point me to a video to reassemble it...!

Hi

I need to change a damaged power cord on a Chauvet COLORado 1 IP fixture. The damage is too close the the inlet to make a repair externally, so I need to get in to the fixture itself.

I have removed all the screws at the front, as well as those holding the yoke, but I cannot easily separate the two parts without a lot of force. I worry that if I try too hard, I may do some irreparable damage.

It's only ever used indoors, so I'm not worried about losing the IP rating for liquids.

Does anyone have any experience of this? It's for a community group, so an "appointed service centre" is not an option..

Regarding all of the above, has anyone successfully installed Inrush Current Limiters in their circuits?

Eaton did do one, but it's now discontinued - although it looks similar to one by PROLED, which provides AC peak current at 165 A for 20 ms / 800 A for 200 μs and AC continuous current at 16 A https://www.proled.com/en-DE/products/controls-power-supplies-accessories/cables-accessories/inrush-current-limiter/

Thanks, all

That concurs with what I remember from a seminar by James Eade at a PLASA just after the 18th Edition came out (or was due out) - i.e. Type A C Curves. And the video was very useful!

My doubts were raised by a retired electrician who not only said that RCBO/RCDs weren't needed, but that B Curves would do (old dogs and new tricks come to mind!).

Thankfully, that was elsewhere and he is not involved in this install. I can now price up the parts and get a spark booked.

Yes, I had intended to have 20amp DP switches installed for isolation, but I'm not sure whether to have these with neon indicators because I know they can make some domestic LED fittings glow. I don't know if this would be an issue. I would prefer them as an easy visual check that everything is off.

I'm planning on about 10 fixtures per circuit. But, having watched that video, I might suggest installing a separate distro just for the LEDs, with multiple circuits. I'll have to see how it goes.

Thanks again!

We operate in a multi-use space, which has a small number of permanently hung LED fixtures, as well as some of our dimmer-fed tungsten generics.

The existing LEDs are plugged in to a circuit with sockets that are not easily accessible to most of the volunteers who run the venue, and so are consequently left live all the time.

The committee has agreed to get a couple of spare ways in the distro board to enable isolation of these fixtures, as well as some new LED fixtures to be bought soon.

These circuits would supply - almost exclusively - the LED fixtures. The only exceptions would be some DMX splitters and a wireless DMX transmitter.

Should we spec' type A or AC RCBOs and should they be B Curve or C Curve?

Thanks for reading!

 

Thanks musht.

 

It is similar, but it doesn't have the stand-alone option.

 

What I am trying to achieve is LED auditorium lighting control over DMX for productions, but then the ability to allow casual users (and the cleaner!) to have control without the need for a DMX controller. (Plus, as always with amateur theatre, at the lowest price point)

 

I haven't added a DMX signal yet (I did on the first unit, which I returned because I thought it was faulty), so in theory it should be in stand-alone mode.

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Gerry.

 

I haven't added a DMX signal yet (I did on the first unit, which I returned because I thought it was faulty), so in theory it should be in stand-alone mode.

 

 

 

Hello

Does anyone have any experience with the S1-D AC Triac DMX Dimmer (currently for sale at Amazon for about £25)?

It boast both stand-alone and DMX control for up to 2 channels of single-colour LED 240v lamps.

The instructions are very vague and, whilst they explain how to enter the various set-up parameters, there is no indication (that I can see) of how to enter stand-alone or DMX mode. The lamp I have attached to the unit just cycles through the various states.

Additionally, when I put a continuity meter across the DMX terminal connections (powered-down), they show a short across all connections.

Any explanations that can be offered will be much appreciated.

Thanks

Ian