Ed Kaz

The way I am using these fixtures is thru a DMX relay to take advantage of the built- in sound activated programs and Blacking out fixtures when a DMX signal is present. Every works great but one fixtures does not lite when switched.  If the fixture is reset it will work for a while but have no light output intermittently? Was just going to try to narrow it down to a board but not sure which one would control led light switching... Thanks for the replies!

Thanks for the reply...I have tried Factory reset. It works for a while but when turned off and back on this fixture sometimes does not turn on (no light... movement ok)

I am going old school and set up some Martin mulitbeam 2's (16). 15 work great but one does not. When it switches from "black out" or just powering on the fixture I have movement BUT no light output from any leds. If a reset is performed the fixture will work properly until the next blackout or power cycle? Has anyone come across this? Would replacing  the main board (Main board Multibeam 2 50480669) control the switching for lights on?

Thanks

Ed 

Technical Support Engineer Harman Professional Solutions:

"I would inspect all connections to the thermal switch (you will need to pull back insulation to expose wiring around thermal) and main PCB.  We have seen the connections deteriorate over time and have to be redone "

I just have to get to venue and get it on the bench...

Thanks for all your help. I will try to call Martin (or whoever is there now).

The remote is directly plugged into the back and unit does have dip switches for DMX.

Like I said its an intermittent problem and ONLY does NOT work when I need it the most...

Boy its starting out to be a rough year....

I have a Jem ZR33 fogger that works when it wants to...

The ready led on the back works intermittently. 

When powered on and after heat up it would come on and work fine all night. 

Next night ... turn it on, it heats up(>30mins) (can feel heat thru from front of unit)...

NO "ready" led  

No Fog output

Checked "thermo breaker" under front cover ... not tripped.

Next night works fine?

Has anyone worked on these bad boys or any ideas on what to look for.

Thanks

Ed

Thanks for all your help. 

I can see where switching one leg would be a problem.

Sunray...love the relay...(and the drawing)...I will try to find one available closer to me!

Ed

Dave would this work?

Can I just switch the "+D" of the DMX signal?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313415418929?epid=11012071349&hash=item48f903c431:g:wyQAAOSw9vdgJVMu

Thank you sir !!

Do they make such a thing? 

Or do I break out the soldering iron?

Would there be a problem switching the DMX signal?

Thanks for in info...the fixtures were gutted with missing gobos...but love the 3d blocks!

Just finished repairing a few technobeams and they are missing some gobos. 

Can anyone recommend some gobo images that would look good in a club type venue.

Thanks

Ed

Does anyone have or programmed these fixtures?

I have 6 of these in a club and they have some nice "Master/Slave" programs but are not accessible thru DMX (still using old Lightjockey).

When running their macro ... they all do their own thing (looks bad ).

Anyway these fixtures CAN RUN their stand alone programs IF the DMX signal is lost!

Is there a device than can "break/switch" the DMX signal to that separate group of multibeams ... controllable thru the lighting software???? 

Thanks for any help

Ed

Thanks for all your help !

Voltage good....Ordered replacement chips to try.

Ed

I took one of the strobes apart. There is only 2 socketed IC on the board. Would the MC3405OP the chip I am looking for???

Hi,

Here I go again looking for parts.... I need the lamp holder and long adjusting screws for lamp. The blind nuts just spin and trying to remove most of them I broke them off.

Thanks

Ed

I have a contact who has 11 working 518 units plus a spare/donor unit - I can put you in touch if that's of any assistance?

 

If he is willing to sell me a mirror...Sure. Thanks

 

Cheers,

Sam

Very thin front surface mirrors are available cut to precise dimensions from http://www.scientificmirrors.co.uk/ They have sorted me out mirrors for various scans successfully, I can highly recommend them

 

Good to know! I might need some mirrors for some highend powerscans 250MR's. Thanks

Thanks for the reply... The lens for sure is inserted fully (as it locks in). I have a call in to Panasonic to see what they say...no reply yet. I have to get this to work (or find a cheap projector with ultra short throw that would do a 220"@ 13.5' image)

I remember there being a tricky bit to get wrong, Maybe it was just the rear position we had to cope with due to the flight case arrangements.

 

Just to confirm; are you homing the lens before changing it?

 

That's what it was (homing).

WOW !!! if all else fails read the manual.

Thank you for all your time and help.

Ed

IIRC correctly these are a button on the front to release the lens then turn to the right and slide out. Replacement is then push the button in, line up a lug on the top of the lens with a groove, pull the lens in and rotate to the left.

 

I have it in my head it is possible to either:

not to insert fully before turning or

Line the lug up in the wrong place.

I'm trying to remember back to 2011 for this so the details have left my head.

 

I think there was only one fixed focus lens and for our 12x8ft screens the throw was a little over 3m or stacked vertically on a 8x10ft screen (portrait screen/ landscape projectors) th ethrow was 2m. Again from 10 years back.

I have a few of these projectors (Pt-DW6300us) and they work great. I have a venu that does not support the throw... so I purchased the recommend lens (ET-DLE055) from the manual. Installed said lens and can't get a clear picture beyond 6". The standard lens works great. And according to the manual for the projector the lens install should be plug and play? I know this is old school stuff but does anyone tried this and am I missing something?

Thanks

Ed

 

Thanks for the reply... The lens for sure is inserted fully (as it locks in). I have a call in to Panasonic to see what they say...no reply yet. I have to get this to work (or find a cheap projector with ultra short throw that would do a 220"@ 13.5' image)

 

Beware odd sources or DIY. Most moving mirrors are thinner than you expect and the motors miss steps if the mirrors are too massive.

Thanks ... very hard to find a mirror that's less than the fixtures worth...

Where can one buy a replacement mirror for a 518. I have a few x-tra mirrors from some highend powerscan 250's...would this work on the 518? If so what kind of adhesive would I use for installing the mirror.

Thanks

Ed

I have a few of these projectors (Pt-DW6300us) and they work great. I have a venu that does not support the throw... so I purchased the recommend lens (ET-DLE055) from the manual. Installed said lens and can't get a clear picture beyond 6". The standard lens works great. And according to the manual for the projector the lens install should be plug and play? I know this is old school stuff but does anyone tried this and am I missing something?

Thanks

Ed