DonkiDonki

When needing expensive software for your work such as cad and lighting design which generally have both a high initial cost and expensive annual costs to keep access to relevant features, how much of that cost can be written off for tax purposes?

Does it make a difference if you are sole trader or limited.

Does it make a difference if you buy outright and pay annual update fees or if you use a lease scheme?

Hi

 

I use light oil spray such as MechOil, and use it sparingly on the feature wheels. Irises should never be lubricated, because anything you add ultimately dries out and jams the petals together.

 

I would avoid using PTFE spray as it tends to become very gummy over time which inevitably leads to problems.

 

Optical components can be soaked in 100% isopropanol before air-drying. Be wary when removing the 700's diffuser assembly as it is extremely fragile, and the zoom lens must be fully forward before it can be slid out of the chassis.

 

The kryptons are a much simpler affair, although care must be taken not to crush the wiring with the colour/gobo assembly when putting it back together. The focus worm drive can be lubricated with a few drops of 3 in 1.

 

Belts can be lubricated with dressing spray.

 

All the best

Timmeh

Thanks for sharing. Would you use a touch of graphite powder on the iris if it seems rough or does that have the same issue as the PTFE?

We have some mac700 profiles and mac250 krypton in need of a good clean.

Happy to strip them and clean the optics but unsure on what lubricants to reapply where needed.

Manual mentions various parts that can have teflon lubricant applied but doesn't recommend anything for things like gobo wheel gears.

Which teflon lubricant do people use and does anyone recommend lubricating any other parts; and with what?

I would check the high voltage wiring going from the arm to the head, the blue and black wire. Common problem on MAC 250 entour/kryptons with them breaking then the lamp wont strike. if they are ok the check voltages going to the starter.

thanks, I'll pass that on to the service chap. the replacement fixture has arrived now so I can just swap it out for now.

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Sounds like the likely culprit is a duff igniter or at an outside chance the ballast.

 

If you're confident with a multimeter then you can meter to see if you have mains voltage at the input to the igniter, if you do then that's your problem. A big word of caution though, you really don't want to be trying to meter the output of the igniter!

Thanks, we're going to replace it tomorrow afternoon anyway, let the hire company sort it out. If it is igniter or ballast then there's not much I can do without spares anyway.

I was hoping it might be the relay sticking, but if it is; my efforts to knock it free have failed.

I'm onsite with a rig which includes a couple of mac250 entour.

One of them has doused its lamp, although it worked for over a day. When trying to strike the lamp it says hot even though completely cold. I have tried a spare lamp but no change. When attempting to strike the lamp there is only a very quiet click from the yoke, not the usual sound that you get when the lamp strikes or attempts to strike.

I suspect either a faulty temp sensor or sticking relay. I've tried giving the relay a sharp tap but no difference.

Anyone got any ideas?

We can get a replacement but not in time for tomorrows show.http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif

The 90W LED is just a scaled up version of the 40W LED that I'm using. The 90W version uses four strings of LEDs at around 20-ish volts per string. You'd need four separate LED drivers, and a 24V 100W power supply. I use these LED dynamics drivers as they are fairly cheap and do what I need them to do. I wouldn't use the cool white LED though as its a bit too blue. The neutral or warm white LEDs might be a bit better.

 

Edit: Even though I'm using two 1A drivers, I have used their control pins to throttle the LED current back to just under 800mA. Its not really recommended to run the LEDEngin LEDs at 1000mA unless you can keep their junction temperatures down. Since my LED doesn't even get warm, I may try running it at 1000mA to see what happens.

have you got around to trying them at 1000mA?

I've had that error with Mac's before when the mains patch had got messed up and they were actually just getting pre-heat voltage from a dimmer.

They worked just fine when the mains was put right so probably not the problem your experiencing if they are definately on hot power.