Pulsar Datapak - Triac Replacement

[Pete Alcock]

Hi All,

 

There is a venue I occasionally work in and at the last visit we found one of the channels of the Pulsar Datapak was stuck on (even with no desk connected). Past experience indicates this is probably a triac gone home. I won't be able to visit the venue for a few days, so wondered if anyone knew what type of triacs are used, and whether it's a simple "screwdriver fix" or "total PCB out" sort of job?

 

From recollection it's the 18 channel version of the Datapak.

 

Many thanks, Pete.

[alistermorton]

Not sure about the triac swap, but while you're at it, check that the fuse if of the correct type which I think is a HRC FF sand filled.

[IRW]

Hi All,

 

There is a venue I occasionally work in and at the last visit we found one of the channels of the Pulsar Datapak was stuck on (even with no desk connected). Past experience indicates this is probably a triac gone home. I won't be able to visit the venue for a few days, so wondered if anyone knew what type of triacs are used, and whether it's a simple "screwdriver fix" or "total PCB out" sort of job?

 

From recollection it's the 18 channel version of the Datapak.

 

Many thanks, Pete.

 

I'm not familiar with the datapacks, but if they're anything like the rackpacks I have in my garage, it's not a straightforward 'screwdriver fix', but is a fairly straightforward soldering iron job.

 

See the first picture in my thread here. The triacs are the components that are soldered onto the board, and bolted to the heatsink that runs down the middle of the photo.

Edited May 10, 2021 by IRW

[R Collins]

Hi its an easy repair, soldering iron, long reach Phillips screw driver and a 12 or 25 amp triac. Remove the front panel to gain access

[Pete Alcock]

Hi its an easy repair, soldering iron, long reach Phillips screw driver and a 12 or 25 amp triac. Remove the front panel to gain access

 

Thanks, that's a relief to know! I don't suppose you remember if they're TO220 type triacs? I have a few of those in stock that's all.

[Jivemaster]

When you find the replacement triac, also look for a set of the correct fuses. The amp rating and the number of F's are essential along with the HRC data mark. They will be ceramic and sand filled. Without the correct fuses the triac will protect the fuse at first sign of a fault. If that dark choke is cooked then it may be replaceable or rewindable.

 

Pulsar still have https://pulsarlight.com/ They may supply parts or good advice.