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Whiskers

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    Patrick Behan

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  1. Larger van leads to bad places, you can hire a luton transit for maybe +20% with fuel costing about +30% BUT a luton caries LESS weight than a standard van, it is so easy to overload one, payload is only about 1 ton, a few LX cables, scaff fittings, stage weights, and whatever the other group adds and you are full with a capital F , you sling in a bit extra, plus the driver and passengers luggage - sure the brakes are not to efficient , it sways horribly when you corner, you will drive slowly you promise. Motorway police have an eye for overloaded vans, you are taken to a weighbridge and if over you get a ticket AND the van is impounded until you reduce the load, go hire a second van at rack rates, cross load in the rain, wait for the police to return and lift your prohibition, end up needing a hotel half way as its now 2AM and you still did not pass Preston. . . . Even bigger van? - you enter the world of O licences and driver tachographs, if you don't already have all that just don't even ask. A few of the major van hire companies will do a one way hire, costs extra but you might save a bit. However make sure you can get a confirmed reservation for the return trip before you commit, end of the festival there is a 2 / 3 week wait for one ways out of Scotland.
  2. sort of 2of those, just the chamfered bits but curved to the pole, one tapped and the other clearance for the locking screw
  3. Tim The outer on the clamp was rigid and did not compress, the locking knob screwed into one of a pair of rods with chamfers that pinched the pole and gripped it, a spring pushed them open when the locking screw was slackened. Even in the day they were hard to replace and various inventions were used, now I fear it is steel rod and hand tools. Take a length of rod the same size as the holes largest diameter, file a flat along the length of the rod until it will go in the hole, it is D shaped cut about 2" off the rod and tap a hole in the centre for the clamping screw, file a curve on the side of the rod that will mate with nearly half the extension pole, cut another piece of bar, a little shorter and drill a clearance hole for the locking screw, file a similar curve that will mate with nearly the other side of the pole, the nearlys give a small gap when clamped and are where the spring lives, add washers and you are ready to lock . I have a recollection that these were shiny, so perhaps you could start with Aluminium to make the filing easy. HAPPY CLAMPING The safety did compress
  4. CP lamps burn slightly bluer at 3200K but have a shorter life 400 hours giving 54000 lumens (2K) T class are yellower at about 2950K life of 750 hours giving 21000 lumens.(t11) Equivalent CP at 3200K life is 250 hours giving 26000 lumens. As the lamp power gets smaller the life reduces, thinner filaments. 2000w T class are now hard to find, run the dimmer at about 8.5 to get a similar effect.
  5. Back in the day I would have taken the meal deal and rejoiced rather than the in house catering at the ICC. Rumour told that if managements wanted to bring their own tour catering in the ICC would charge the same as if you were using the in house. Night crew meals were the worst
  6. Change the triac, check the fuse is within spec, that covers 95 percent of cases with these symptoms.
  7. The fuseholder problem was that the lamp drew more than 10 A but some standard or other decreed that 240v rated 1 1/4 fuses may only go up to 10 A, people and experts substituted automotive fuses which go higher, then the holders started to fry. the mod kit might even have been free so its a bit of a surprise to find unmodded examples. The big capacitor in the ballast box; The ballast is not shown on the diagrams I showed. The ballast is a large series choke [inductance] that is in series with the arc, an arc is effectively zero ohms when burning and the choke in series limits the lamp current to prevent melt down. however this generates 'extra' current in the circuit, google 'reactive power' and 'power factor' The cure for this was a large AC rated capacitor, these do fail with age often with smoke or a bang, experts then remove them as the spotlight works just as well, but drawing lots of 'extra' current. It is also possible that Strand omitted the capacitor, my addled brain cannot remember everything.
  8. you could replace the lamp with 2 bent copper wires with points set to about 3mm apart, the starting pulse if it exists will jump that, pins from a 5A plug may well fit the lamp holder, please please please remember this is deadly high voltage. lid open interlock switch is a sure fire stopper, sad twistlocks on the top can mess all that up the early ones had a fuse holder sticking out of the back panel, this was overstressed and had to be field replaced with an mcb that was also the on off switch. WHEN the big capacitors in the ballast deteriorate with age the spot will draw far to much current, even in good condition you would get 10 plus amps I think getting at the igniter circuit involves sliding the tray backwards, you have to disconnect the lampholder tails first, I think from the striker not the holder. Strand documentation / puzzle books are at https://www.theatrecrafts.com/archive/documents/patt765csihandbook.pdf https://www.theatrecrafts.com/archive/documents/patt765exploded.pdf AGAIN THERE ARE SOME VERY HIGH VOLTAGES AND CAPACITORS - - - I DID NOT SIGN YOU OFF FOR HV WORK - - - IF YOU GET KILLED DON'T COME BLUBBING TO ME
  9. You are in danger of adding further delay to the video output with the switcher, you state you are relaying an organist, the screen may be noticeably out of sync, close ups of fingers could be very obvious, make sure this is acceptable before committing to the project.
  10. It's even better that the fire exits were not chained shut.
  11. DEAR OLD 7300 DVD PLAYER if you can live with PAL resolution has push button interface built in, short 2 wires = go button 1 . author the disk with holding screen / company logo / blank as top menu background. and one invisible button firing one title, your video clip, . wires short title one your clip plays waits in top screen wires short . . . build your own big red, bell wire to unit, 1/2 wide 3u,
  12. Whiskers

    DIY IP show relay

    Consider MTBF If the venue has CAT wiring then adapters and analogue will be less trouble in the long run. Maybe need local amplification as 100V line (can get above 100V) is pushing insulation near the limit.
  13. " 1) For individual channels, without any control you could just remove the triacs and put a link across where the MT1 and MT2 terminals of the triac were. Nice and easy as the triacs are on barrier strips." Are the noise reduction inductors still in circuit by this method?
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