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Tom Baldwin

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    Amateur theatre practitioner
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    Lighting designer with Starburst Theatre Company in Fleet, also providing LX production services to other groups in the area.
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    Tom Baldwin

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    N.E. Hampshire

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  1. One set of spill rings for a 500W R&V beamlight, as pictured. Free to a good home - either collect from north-east Hampshire, or postage at cost.
  2. How about this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32840324731.html 0-50V variable output at 5A, and it’ll take anything from 6V up to 50V as its input voltage (so your could feed it from your 24V rail, for example. You’d have to double check the dimensions, but it’s approximately right for the size hole you have in that front panel already.
  3. Farnell sell enclosures by a manufacturer by the name of Box (which makes searching for them difficult!). They’re in a very similar style to the Tecpro enclosure you mentioned, but in a range of sizes and colours: https://uk.farnell.com/c/enclosures-racks-cabinets/enclosures-boxes-cases/metal-enclosures?brand=box-enclosures
  4. The small V A panel meters I have seen normally have separate connections for a supply to make the meter electronics work and for the system to be measured. So you would feed the meter supply connections with something less than 30V, while the other connections (for measuring) can cope with up to 100V. Do you have a link to the meters you've bought?
  5. Pretty sure at least one generation of the ChromaQ color block was power+data over the 4 pin XLR, because you could daisy chain them and achieve individual cell control. There was no addressing on the blocks, you set that on the control unit/ PSU. I assume the protocol must have followed the same pattern as all the WS2812 and similar LEDs now, where everything acts as a shift register: the data is clocked through all the units until every unit has been given a fresh value, and then on some signal all the units adopt the value(s) they've been left holding.
  6. Neither right clicking to download, nor opening in a new tab work for me either. I get the error "This attachment is not available. It may have been removed or the person who shared it may not have permission to share it to this location."
  7. I couldn't find a solution to this problem either, so I ended up self-hosting a calendar server. Not especially difficult if IT is your thing, but certainly a step or two beyond plug and play.
  8. Much as I liked themadhippy’s suggestion of a hovercraft, it would probably be cheaper to extend the workshop so I didn’t need to move the trolley at all! I’ve ordered a set of four swivel castors (2 with brakes) from Ross Castors. I don’t need something that’ll go in a straight line for 100m, I need it to be very manouverable, so swivel castors it is. Sadly the omni wheels from Australia seem to have put on a lot of pounds on the journey from here to there (the price in AUD is quite good… GBP not so much!) Thanks to everyone for their suggestions, much appreciated. Tom
  9. The current castors were eBay cheapies - on paper they're rated for 200kg, but what they're really rated for, of course, is anyone's guess! They are only 2" in diameter, which may contribute to the difficulty in getting to swivel - there just won't be as much leverage as with a larger wheel.
  10. Bit of a left-field question, but with all the experience here of pushing things around on wheels, I hope there might be some good ideas lurking. In the workshop, I've got a trolley/ truck with some woodworking machinery on it - all up, it weighs about 80kg. Because of the layout of the workshop, it needs to move around - not large distances, but it does need to move. Unfortunately, it's not as simple as moving back and forth along a straight path - the movement is a mix of sliding in various directions, and also rotating. It's on swivel castors at the moment, but it's quite hard to maneuver - probably because of the nature of swivel castors - the wheels will always swivel to align with the direction of travel. To then push them at 90' to the previous direction of travel means the castors need to swivel, and that always takes extra force. The answer might be as simple as upgrading the castors to something good from Flints, but they'd still have the problem of needing to re-orientate themselves each time the direction changed. I've looked at alternatives like omni-wheels or mecanum wheels, but finding some which can take the load at a sensible price is a challenge (to give an idea, Flints want about £50 for a decent set of castors, while omni-wheels seem to be nearer that price just for a single wheel). I did also wonder about ball transfer units in an inverted configuration, but I was worried how much damage the point loads of small (<1") metal balls would do to the concrete floor. Does anybody have any suggestions of how best to achieve an easily moved truck? Thanks, Tom
  11. Could it be a malfunctioning DIP switch? They do tend to pick up dirt over time, and if the switch isn't reading the same on your one "defective" unit, that might explain its different behaviour.
  12. There's a video by Mike's Electric Stuff on YouTube about them . Looks like an interesting product!
  13. I was thinking along the lines of a new outer flight case which had shelves for the existing racks to slide into - a bit like this sort of tool case (Flightcase Warehouse): but with shelves for the existing flightcases instead of drawers. It could have a removable back (for access to connectors) of whatever depth was necessary. If the shelves had stops at the back, the existing racks wouldn't slide too far back, and the front of this new case could have sufficient depth of foam to stop the existing racks sliding forwards in transit. Once the rack was in situ, I can't imagine the existing racks would want to move around. You could perhaps have one for all of your racks, and a second one for just three of them (assuming that when you're down to just two racks, the effort to cable it up is not so great as to justify a custom rack.
  14. I haven't used them for PowerCon splitters, but I have used the BEX enclosures from Box Enclosures before for other projects, and found them to be very nicely made (and in terms of construction, close cousins of the Canford beltpack enclosures). I think B3-080BK would work nicely for a 5-way splitter. Farnell sell it here: https://uk.farnell.com/box-enclosures/b3-080bk/case-aluminium-black-109x45x80mm/dp/1418594 The datasheet is here: https://www.boxenclosures.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/B3-080-Master-Drawing-Model.pdf
  15. TMB sell "shotgun" style dual Cat5e cable: here - you could use two of the pairs for video & RS-485, and the rest for power. By my reckoning, you have 12x 0.22mm2 conductors available for power. In a similar spirit of combining lots of conductors, there's Canford 8-pair FSM which is a single 11mm diameter cable I had wondered about running a higher voltage down the cable and then dropping it at the camera, but introduces more active devices in the system which could fail, cf. the passive approach of the "right" cable.
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