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sunray

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    Self employed AV, lighting, control
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    Ray Sohst

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  1. sunray

    Audio attenuation

    All sorted, luckily the double sided pcb (containing 2 pots each and linked with 3 pin jumper leads) are laid out in such a way that cutting 2 tracks by each pot and soldering a link across the pot pins was easy. Input resistance is 6* 10K+10K in parallel = 3K33 I know it shouldn't but that arrangement seems to work more 'linearly' than just one such control. This came from AliExpress at a total cost including delivery under £7 with a white stripe to write on and took 20 minutes from the time it came through the door to modify and test. Yes it's cheap but at the moment it seems to be useful, even the XLR's feel OK. The only downside that I can see is it's only 58mm deep so can be very deeply buried when it comes to access for plugging.
  2. These are for S4 & S4000: The shorter (top) aerials are for CH70/higher frequencies, the longer (bottom) aerials are for CH38/lower frequencies. I assume other systems follow the same format.
  3. Thank heavens I'm not the only one to have this thought.
  4. I was surprised the first time I used an impedance meter just how efective it is for the purpose, did you think the same? PM sent
  5. As has been said any amplifier will do. I did exaclty this exercise in a shopping centre fitted with 32 zones of voice EVAC. Initially we tried locating failed speakers using the main system (450W per zone) but lack of volume control capabilities made it difficult. we used a small amp of around 30W at 8ohms to provide a low level signal on a zone by zone basis. The thing about such a system is if properly designed there are no apparent gaps in the sound but running at a much lower level allows the gaps to form. As Philip has mentioned the tone set may be enough for the job, the same is true for a loudspeaker impedance meter. As an aside to this I'll shortly be sorting out my 'store' and disposing of my PA hire stock including a number of 120W mixer amps, typically TOA A512 sort of thing if it helps. EDIT: Another aside: I've been using Eagle horn loudspeaker for 50 years 100V tapped at 15W and regularly run a row of them on a 120W 4ohm amplifier without a step-up transformer.
  6. Me, Me🤫 Initially I had 2* 21" tv's to do show relay to dressing rooms, then used 19" VGA monitors, with CV to VGA and VGA to CAT5 adapters. Taking one of the TV's to the tip I was really lucky someone was dumping 2* 19" flatscreen analogue TV's a few days after digital changeover and used those ever since. I tried using TV internal speakers but find it's much easier with Fostex powered speakers.
  7. If your current TV's have analogue tuners then the modulator from a VHS machine and the supplier may be pleased you take it off their hands😁
  8. CPC used to do several but IIRC the called them something like encoders EDIT: Wow I can't believe the price hike, these: https://cpc.farnell.com/antiference/dmsd02/digital-modulator-twin-sd-dvb/dp/AP02864?st=dvb modulator were <£100, now £510+ another at £289+: https://www.alltrade.co.uk/shop/conexer-single-sd-dvb-t-modulator also available at Alltrade: https://www.alltrade.co.uk/shop/conexer-single-sd-dvb-t-modulator but one has to convince them you are a TV installer
  9. sunray

    Audio attenuation

    I've mocked this up and thinking about sandall's balance comment I set it up using a 10K lin pot for unbalanced stereo and played a bit of Pink Floyd Sheep as it has a heavy stereo effect. Rather than having a balancing effect it narrowed the width of the sound and only cancelled those sounds equal on both channels. Wiring as balanced attenuater (as Lamplighter offered) works a treat except for the kit I was using (Spirit notepad and Canford powered diecast monitor speaker via isolating transformer to ensure it is balanced) there is a very non linear feel with lots happening at each end of the track and not much over the middle half, reducing the 10K down to 2K made much better sense. I will demonstrate it to the owner of the unit to see if he wants to reconfigure it. As built the current arrangement is very difficult to alter on the hoof.
  10. Not something I'm particularly suggesting to do: At school we had lengths of railway lengths about 15-18inches long, very historic even back in late 60's stamped with '40lbs' and some half the size. I assume made in the metalwork shop with a couple of links and a 'T' handle which laid in the groove on the top (the rail laid on it's side) when not being lifted. EDIT: no,got that wrong, thinking of something else. they had several holes through the web and a separate handle arrangement to hook through a hole and lift them:My proportions are wrong but the basics show and of course the profile of railway track is now very different. They were stackable as the head and web were fairly similar sizes
  11. Now you mention that I remember the change of tech sheet that came with AT8033's.
  12. The only reason the pair are still here Is I wondered about converting to LED.
  13. Rob There are 2 of these, quite honestly they have been hanging up out of the way for a while. A bit fiddly to get them down at the moment (due to a foodbank invading the space) to take better pics. I planned to use them maybe 5-6 years ago (more for the prop value than lighting reasons) but the damaged cables & plugs/sockets didn't pass my PAT and it wasn't worth my time repairing them for the situation, in fact so wrong I'll strip them off before passing them over. I think a full set of bulbs but one unit is facing the wall, never seen them in use so no idea if all or how many are good. The Strand 8 was eventually sent for scrap during a clearout.
  14. I wish more people understood that🤔
  15. I'll say the same about the C1 and their version for the SM58 market about 30 years ago.
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