ETC Source 4 not working after lamp blown

[builders_1sugar]

I have an ETC Source 4 Zoom 25'-50'. The HPL 750w lamp blew for no nefarious reason - I understand it's been a bit of a workhorse and it was pretty much due for a new lamp. I have replaced with an HPL 575w but now the light isn't working at all. I have tried plugging it in directly and also through the dimmer. The dimmer is receiving power. This is a new light to me - is there anything obvious I can check? Any advice appreciated.

[paulears]

Maybe the old lamp died because the socket was arcing - where the pins fit in - so the lamp holder is faulty, not the lamp? Did you see any broken filaments? You need a test meter - even a cheap one that can indicate continuity. Pin to lamp holder, then the other side of the lamp holder back to plug, and of course across the pins of the lamp.

[alistermorton]

This might seem like a really stupid question, but it doesn't have a standard domestic 3-pin square plug fitted has it (I once bought a Prelude profile that had been used in a hotel that had a domestic plug on it)? If so, it might have blown the fuse. If it has a BS546 15A or CEE 16A then ignore me :-)

[natjones]

Source 4s can also develop faults in the insulation of the wiring set. It's a bit of a design flaw, as the lamp housing assembly can bite on it if tightened too hard (insert innuendo here).

 

Obvious check: Is the dimmer outputting power? The fuse might have tripped when the lamp blew. If an alternative lantern is working in the socket, and you've checked the wiring on the socket and plug, then a failed continuity test between the pins and lampholder would indicate this. The spares are easily available, but aren't cheap if you're on a budget. https://stagedepot.c...-par-wiring-set b

Edited October 30, 2020 by natjones

[sunray]

Maybe the old lamp died because the socket was arcing - where the pins fit in - so the lamp holder is faulty, not the lamp? Did you see any broken filaments? You need a test meter - even a cheap one that can indicate continuity. Pin to lamp holder, then the other side of the lamp holder back to plug, and of course across the pins of the lamp.

 

I have a couple of dozen second hand fittings of which most are GY9.5 and finding I quite often need to replace lampholders, particularly after a bulb failure. Most are cheap, basic and not very effective [Microspot 308/Minim23 calibre] this is rapidly becoming a cost effective decision as a new lampholder costs more than a cheap LED flood which is in many ways just as acceptable for a back street AmDram and certainly easier to rig/focus for many of them.

I'm not trying to put a source4 into this category, just commenting on the lampholder failures.

 

[builders_1sugar]

This might seem like a really stupid question, but it doesn't have a standard domestic 3-pin square plug fitted has it (I once bought a Prelude profile that had been used in a hotel that had a domestic plug on it)? If so, it might have blown the fuse. If it has a BS546 15A or CEE 16A then ignore me :-)

 

Crikey! No domestic plug.

 

Source 4s can also develop faults in the insulation of the wiring set. It's a bit of a design flaw, as the lamp housing assembly can bite on it if tightened too hard (insert innuendo here).

 

Obvious check: Is the dimmer outputting power? The fuse might have tripped when the lamp blew. If an alternative lantern is working in the socket, and you've checked the wiring on the socket and plug, then a failed continuity test between the pins and lampholder would indicate this. The spares are easily available, but aren't cheap if you're on a budget. https://stagedepot.c...-par-wiring-set b

 

Dimmer is outputting, yes. Socket and plug are good. £40 for a wiring set. Eesh. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Maybe the old lamp died because the socket was arcing - where the pins fit in - so the lamp holder is faulty, not the lamp? Did you see any broken filaments? You need a test meter - even a cheap one that can indicate continuity. Pin to lamp holder, then the other side of the lamp holder back to plug, and of course across the pins of the lamp.

 

I have a couple of dozen second hand fittings of which most are GY9.5 and finding I quite often need to replace lampholders, particularly after a bulb failure. Most are cheap, basic and not very effective [Microspot 308/Minim23 calibre] this is rapidly becoming a cost effective decision as a new lampholder costs more than a cheap LED flood which is in many ways just as acceptable for a back street AmDram and certainly easier to rig/focus for many of them.

I'm not trying to put a source4 into this category, just commenting on the lampholder failures.

 

 

Hahaha! 'I'm nor saying they're a problem... but I'm directly associating them with other heads which are a problem!" - something like that? :-) No love lost, you could well be on to something.

 

Maybe the old lamp died because the socket was arcing - where the pins fit in - so the lamp holder is faulty, not the lamp? Did you see any broken filaments? You need a test meter - even a cheap one that can indicate continuity. Pin to lamp holder, then the other side of the lamp holder back to plug, and of course across the pins of the lamp.

 

Solid advice. Will try this first.

[natjones]

"£40 for a wiring set. Eesh. Thanks for the suggestion.."

 

 

Tell me about it! I've probably spent at least a grand replacing Source 4 wiring sets over the years. But it's still cheaper than a whole new lantern or constantly blowing lamps, I guess... The good news is that once you've replaced it, it probably won't bother you again for 10 years if you're careful not to overtighten when you reassemble the lamp housing. The bad news is that if you've purchased a bunch in one go, you might see a run of the same problem.

Edited October 30, 2020 by natjones

[gareth]

To echo other posts... definitely check the pins of the old lamp (if you still have it) and the contacts in the lampholder for signs of arcing. I've rarely seen it on Source4s - unlike Strand SLs, where it happens to almost every lantern sooner or later - but you never know. Beyond that, again to echo previous responses, buzz out the continuity from the plugtop to the lampholder - I've seen S4 lampholder wiring fail inside the lamp burner on a couple of occasions before now.

[J Pearce]

One of the venues I frequent uses S4 PARs for houselights. With them pointed straight down and sometimes on for many hours the ceramic lamp bases don’t tend to last long before they distort and start arcing.

[Jivemaster]

When I was responsible for loads of halogen lamps I would fit new holders after 3 - 5 lamps the holder life is genuinely short and a soft spring tends to cause the contacts to arc and the lamp to fail.

[sunray]

When I was responsible for loads of halogen lamps I would fit new holders after 3 - 5 lamps the holder life is genuinely short and a soft spring tends to cause the contacts to arc and the lamp to fail.

That doesn't surprise me.I don't think it was like that with the old strand holders.

 

[kgallen]

S4 wiring set seem to be £31 inc VAT at Stage Electrics 517-3950

But agree will need to add postage.

 

Sales-Spares-ETC

 

https://m.stage-electrics.co.uk/shop/product.aspx?code=517-3950&rtb=true

 

(Link seems to be broken at the moment but product can be added to your Basket).

Edited October 31, 2020 by kgallen

[Jivemaster]

A single failure doesn't tell much, but lamp holder failure often shows up as reducing life of newly fitted lamps. Sometimes a holder change routine is a solution, sometimes the solution is to replace the holder when lamp life reduces. If access is difficult/expensive then replace the holder every couple of lamp changes.

 

Lampholder damage may well be caused by reduced lantern ventilation by dust etc.