Trantec S5

[Wolf124]

After using ch70 for many years I have now had to get hold of extra tx/rx units for our panto. I have acquired a selection of second-hand trantec S5.3 & S5.5 units along with S4000 ADUs, but have found the trantec instructions to be a little lacking so have opened this thread in the hope of clearing up some of my questions. I am sure that many answers are already covered in numerous threads here already, but I will try to bring many together here.

 

1. Does a 'ch69' S4000 adu (sticker on back) need to be retuned for other channels or will it simple take in all the frequencies from the external paddle antennae, boost them and re-distribute them

2. Is there any source to download the trantec monitor software as I cannot find it on the internet.. the trantec web-site appears to be useless for this, but a link would be appreciated

3. Will a standard trantec 13v power supply be sufficient to use a 'daisy chain' lead to power 4 or more S5 units

[cedd]

Hello

Drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send you through a copy of the software. Don't hold your breath though, it's not particularly good, especially when it comes to the order in which the receivers appear. You're supposed to be able to swap the order they're connected to the hub and it fixes it, but I'm yet to get my 24 appearing in the right order!

 

I believe the S4000 is narrow band. There are however some options available to you. Both MLEC and ULS are offering re-tuning services whereby they can take a channel 70 S5 and make it work in channel 65 (new band given to us on our channel 38 licenses) meaning if you've got a license you should be able to use more S5's simultaneously and have some "safe" spectrum.

 

Power supplies-wise I think you'd be stretching it a bit with a single psu for that many. I'd always prefer plenty of headroom.

My own racks use a single larger 12v psu that is then split to them all. I have the added bonus though of a DC changeover relay and a second redundant power supply. This lives in rack 1 and is linked through to my other 2 racks (3 racks of 8) via 4 pin xlr cables.

 

Like I say, drop me a PM.

Edited December 3, 2018 by cedd

[Wolf124]

Thanks Cedd. PM sent (I think I have done it correctly).

 

I have an S5,5 which has been re-programmed to ch65 but the re-programming is under the 'user' sub menu. Is there any way to change the user name or am I stuck with 'user 1' through to 'user 20'?

Edited December 3, 2018 by Wolf124

[cedd]

Afraid I think you're stuck with those names.

Have emailed you the file hopefully.

 

They're still great radio mics and with a new model (almost the same plus a few extra features) out now we'll hopefully see them around for a lot longer yet.

[Wolf124]

Cedd, File arrived. Thanks for that, and your post

 

Aerials.

 

I am aware that the length of a belt pack aerial depends on the frenquency of the pack, but just how critical is it? Ch70 and ch38 differ by about 2cm.

 

Is it possible to make replacement belt pack aerials, if so what is the best wire to use. I have one 2nd hand unit wth an aerial that looks like it is made from the 'live' (line-brown) wire from 13amp flex!!

 

Can a 'solid' aerial from an older S4.4 hand mic be used instead of a belt pack 'whip' aerial without losing too much gain? That would stop the user folding the aerial up inside their pocket or wrapping it neatly around the pack

[pumphouse]

I have had some success with emergency replacement antennae made with single core cable out of a bit of flex - match the length to another antenna and it worked a treat.

 

The length is quite important for RF efficiency.

 

You can get replacement antennae from Trantec or stockists but they are not cheap (£20+).

 

I have also revived antennae with disintegrating plastic with some heatshrink.

 

Jason.

[Wolf124]

Yes, the replacement ants are stupidly expensive for what they are. I have even considered soldering some of that springy net curtain support into something like this...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Pcs-M2-4-4mm-hexagonal-brass-column-support-single-head-brass-stud-M8Z7/183359174895

and covering the lot in heat shrink. I don't have the RF test equipment or technical knowledge to know if it would work! I don't suppose it would cost much in cash or time to buy the hardware and try it before the next production.

[sunray]

Are they 4mm threads?

[Lamplighter]

Are they 4mm threads?

 

No they are M3

[sandall]

Yes, the replacement ants are stupidly expensive for what they are. I have even considered soldering some of that springy net curtain support into something like this... and covering the lot in heat shrink. I don't have the RF test equipment or technical knowledge to know if it would work!

How long your effective aerial would be would depend on whether there is any air-gap between the turns, in which case it would be much too long. I have made whip aerials for UHF Trantecs using wire from dead lampholders (nice & stiff) soldered to bits of sawn-off brass bolt, with the whole thing covered in black heat-shrink. They seemed to survive hires to kids groups (to save the "it won't work if you wrap the aerial round the pack" scenario the VHF ones only ever go out on hire with "rubber-duck" aerials).

Edited December 5, 2018 by sandall

[sunray]

<br />

<br />Are they 4mm threads?<br />

<br /><br />No they are M3<br />

Ah I thought m4 seemed to big but it's rare I take one off.

[Wolf124]

Is it the length of wire or volume of metal that is important. Is 8cm x .5mm wire as good or equal to (say) 8cm x 3mm?. Also if 8cm of thinner insulated wire were wrapped into a cylinder and heatshrink wrapped would that be as good as a long, straight arial?

[sandall]

It's the length that matters. Ideally your aerial is 1/4 wavelength at the appropriate frequency, though Trantec seem to use 1/2 wavelength centre-fed aerials on their S4.n range receivers. In theory your homemade helical aerial should be fine.

[Paul TC]

For wire antennas on VHF belt packs, I have used "extra flex" normally used as test equipment leads, e.g. Link, which stands up to flexing quite well. Bolt, nut, couple of solder tags and heatshrink sorts out the attachment to the beltpack. Edited December 7, 2018 by Paul TC

[cedd]

Be very cautious about simply using the m3 standoff and wire technique for replacement aerials on these. You’ll see that the original aerial’s plastic base fits within the hole in the panel. This means the aerial locks down on to the pcb mounted socket within. This is on a pcb that is a fair way down inside and isn’t directly mounted to that panel. If you use a heatshrunk standoff then it doesn’t fit through that hole, so when you nip it up you’re nipping the heatshrink on to the panel, but the thread hasn’t reached its’ end yet, so it pulls the pcb towards the panel. Bending the pcb and risking damage.

My own S5’s have my custom aerials on them which have a 3d printed base that fits over a standoff with a much longer thread. Fits through the panel hole and then has a larger section on the outside so your fingers can get a bit more purchase to nip it. I use bike brake cable. Need to use a different solder and technically speaking it’s not the ideal aerial material (velocity factors and the like) but in the field they’ve been perfect and a vast improvement on the originals.