Stuart91 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 I've had a good handful of Lite PuterDX-401 dimmers in hire stock. They have, in general, been great and a very worthwhile alternative to Multidim-esque efforts for small rigs. However, over the last wee while a number seem to have had their DMX inputs fail. (The channels still operate when the test button is pressed, but the DMX input is entirely unresponsive) So far I've opened a few up for a nosey around inside. Alas there's no obvious simple fault like a ribbon cable fallen off. I'm guessing some part of the input circuitry has failed, but it's hard to guess what exactly. I was hoping to just order up some spare DMX boards and swap them over, but the parts don't appear to be available. I was wondering if anyone has tackled this problem and found a solution? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbuckley Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 If all the buttons and LCDs operate as intended then the microprocessor is running just fine, so the fault is almost certainly in the DMX receiver chip, probably a SN74156B or equivalent, an 8 legged beastie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 probably a SN74156B or equivalent, an 8 legged beastie. 75176 is the number... like this if it's a dip version, but it comes surface mount as wellhttp://uk.farnell.com/1103022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart91 Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 Thanks - that sounds promising. And at that price, I think I can afford to try some out. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Allen Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 If it is the 8 pin dual in line plastic package as shown in the link above, the last letter of the part number P is the package style, to minimise damage to your circuit board, cut the legs of the suspect ic off with a small pair of cutters, unsolder each leg individually, then solder in a 8 pin DIP socket in case you have another faulty 75176. This style of socket is raised above the circuit board and there is enough clearance for a small cable tie to secure the 75176 in if you are worried about it coming out over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.