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Biskit

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    Working in the industry
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    Working as an in-house technician in various venues (lights, sound, AV and effects, but primary interest is lighting) since June 2006. Previously a full-time freelance lighting technician & op.
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    BECTU, IET
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    Ben Preece BEng

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    West Yorkshire

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  1. Thanks for the replies chaps, both options mentioned worthy of a further look when they come available.
  2. Just wondering if anyone has found any reasonable XLR plug-on wireless units which offer phantom power? Years ago Sennheiser had this feature even on its base model in the G1 Evolution range, however from G2 onwards, phantom power has only featured on the top of the range version. My budget won't stretch that far so I'm looking for other options. There seems to be a plethora of budget plug-on XLR wireless options these days, but all that I've seen are without a phantom option, and I've no idea if any of them are any good anyway. An alternative I'd consider would be a battery powered phantom source, combined with a plug-on transmitter. Has anyone come across a tidy and reliable combination along these lines? Application is for instrument spot-micing where the convenience of wireless is desirable, but where I'd like to be able to select specific (cabled/XLR) mics for the job, rather than a wireless HH on a stand, or lapel/clip-on type options.
  3. Biskit

    Pot cleaning

    A quick one - I'm in the process of doing a light service of a Formula Sound PM80 mixer. Yes it's essentially DJ gear, but it's fundamentally in good nick, and works reliably. The main issue is that many of the pots (old, open type) are quite crackly, and need a clean. When I last did this job, some years ago, I used Servisol Super 10 spray, and to be honest it seemed to work quite well. However I have read things more recently, online and elsewhere, suggesting that stuff doesn't do any good to pots. So what do people use for this? Are there better products nowadays, or ones to avoid? I'm guessing something which incorporates a mild solvent (to clean) plus a light (and conductive) lubricant would be the ideal? Or would something like that just tend to attract dust to stick, in an open design of pot/fader? Any advice appreciated - and I do realise there probably won't be a permanent or perfect solution here!
  4. That sounds interesting - are you saying it would be possible to have one of these powered directly from an existing Strand Permus rack (either from the mains feed, or at a lower voltage)? And that it wouldn't send a surge on start-up, meaning it could safely and reliably be powered up simultaneously with the dimmer rack? That sounds like a good solution to my problem here.
  5. Hi All, I've searched for similar topics and I know this area has been covered before - but not one specific point... I've been asked to look at an existing school install which is a 24 channel Strand Permus rack with analogue control. They want to have DMX control. Simple solution - the Showtec Multiexchanger demux and an appropriate break-out lead from the 25-pin D connector to 4 x DIN. I know it works, as I've done it as a temporary basis in the past. However my question is: how would people suggest powering the demux? The two options essentially are - 1. power it from the dimmer rack, so that when powered up, it just comes on and is ready to go, or 2. power it separately, which means the power-on can be sequenced (demux first) HOWEVER in reality I know the school staff won't do this, and it just adds another thing to go wrong which means I'll get a phone call saying it's not working. I'm keen to go for option 1, however I've noticed in the past these demuxes can sometimes spit out a 'blip' of all channels @100% when powering up, and I've known this cause nuisance tripping of dimmer racks in the past. Has anyone else experienced this, or am I likely to get away with it? I think the rack in question is actually on a distribution circuit with fuse protection, rather than breakers, however I'd be interested to know what experience others have had with this kind of setup. As ever with schools... simplicity is key. One of the teachers actually told me to specify 'prison grade equipment' haha Thanks in advance!
  6. Hi All, I hate having to resort to posts like this because I know it probably looks like I haven't just searched Google/Amazon/Ebay/CPC etc... but I really have, and am drawing a blank! Just planning a minor AV install (not a big job but a tight deadline) and part of the spec is two wall-mounted HDMI connections. Needs to be flush to the surface of a plastered wall (alongside some existing 13A sockets which are already sunk into the wall, so surface-mount will look pretty naff). Could be two on one plate, or two separate. What I really want is an HDMI connector on a plate, with solder tags on the back, or even screw terminals, but all I can find are ones with either a short flying lead to another moulded HDMI female, or basically a F-F adaptor mounted so one end is effectively a panel mount connector and the other is hidden inside. Either type would potentially work... However... unless I chisel a hole practically the entire thickness of the wall, I'm not going to get enough depth behind the plate for either of these to work. Help! Am I missing something really obvious? I thought this would be the easiest bit of the job, but it's fast turning into the most frustrating! Any pointers appreciated. Many thanks!
  7. Just one to canvass opinions as this is a matter on which there is no 'definitive' or 'right' answer... but a lot of options! I have quite a large collection of microphones: essentially lots of different 'options' for bands/live music, mainly general vocal and instrument mics, with some specialist types thrown in. Most are of the SM57/58 form factor, plus a number of small diaphragm condenser types and a few 'odd' ones. Storage is becoming a problem. I have always tried to keep mics in the pouches they came with - however I've ended up with quite a number sharing with two or more identical ones per pouch. They're all like this in a large box - it's ok, but difficult to find the one I want in a hurry. How do others store their mics? Am I perhaps missing a much more convenient way? The options I can see (without spending an absolute fortune on a custom made case with form cut to take every mic I currently have) are: 1. As I am now, with mics in pouches (possibly with better labelling of pouches) 2. Briefcase type cases which come with foam pre-cut to take 7 SM58 shaped mics, eg. https://www.musik-produktiv.com/gb/roadinger-microphone-case-road-7-microphones-black.html - seems wasteful of space, especially for mics which are smaller than an SM58. 3. Deep cases with holes for mics, eg. https://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/industry/product.asp?item=microphone-briefcase-flight-case-2774-7826 - these are quite efficient in terms of space, but I worry about smaller mics rattling around and not being geld securely. Also mics which look similar end-on (eg. SM58 vs Beta 58) can be difficult to distinguish. 4. Generic briefcase style case with 'eggbox' type form top and bottom, and just lay the mics out flat and shut the lid. I imagine this would hold them all quite tight, but I'd worry that in time the foam would degrade and not hold the mics as tightly, so they'd end up all at one end of the case banging against each other in transit. Has anyone tried this approach? 5. Generic form case with 'cut your own form' or the type with the little square pieces that can be pulled out to create your own shapes. I've always thought these are a bit naff unless it just happens that your equipment is all perfectly rectangular, an exact multiple of the pull-out squares, and the exact depth of the case (never happens in my experience). Any other thoughts?
  8. Has anyone come across an app for Chromebook (an Android app could potentially also work) which offers basic show control features for MP3/WAV (etc) playback - for backing tracks and such like. Nothing fancy: at the most basic level just an ability to cue up tracks, reliably play and stop with minimal lag/delay, and put tracks in the right order would suffice. An option to play continuously from one track to the next, or stop and automatically cue up the next, would be better. Something akin to SCS would be the ideal but I'm probably hoping for a bit much there! Any suggestions? There's (predictably) an enormous range of MP3 player apps available, but most are obviously aimed at the leisure market with things like instant play/stop/cue functions not prioritised. Responses/suggestions appreciated, thank you!
  9. Hi, not sure if you received my reply to your message but yes I'm interested. Many thanks
  10. Thanks for the input guys, very much appreciated.
  11. My only issue with those are they need to be powered, either battery or Phantom. Ideally I'd prefer to go down the route of transformer based ones if possible.
  12. I'm looking at purchasing some passive DI boxes for general use on stage in a live environment. They could see use for anything from guitar/bass, to keyboards, synths, or computers. I've previously used EMO single channel boxes, but these are getting pretty expensive (justifiably so, to be fair) and also there seems to be a supply issue with them at the moment. The toggle switch for ground-lift also seems to be a slightly irritating weak-point on these (though easy to repair, of course). Does anyone have experience with the IMG Stageline single passive DI boxes? I believe the same product is also sold as 'Pulse' and probably other brands too. They claim to be transformer matched (like the EMO ones), have switchable 0, -20 and -40 dB pad, and switchable ground lift. 1/4" jack in and XLR out - nice and simple, and I imagine they're pretty robust too. However are they ok sound-wise? Am I better just biting the bullet and waiting for stock of EMO ones and paying for a premium product? Note - I'm not working in situations where they'd necessarily need to be 'rider friendly', but I need to be sure I have kit which can be relied upon and is of reasonable quality - I know that's quite a fine middle-line to walk! Comments welcome! Ben
  13. Hi Richard, Thank you for looking - if it does indeed turn out to be all working ok, and you're looking to move it on, then please drop me a message! Ben
  14. I'm looking for an Avo Pearl Tiger desk - the 'classic' one of the same generation as the Pearl 2004/08/10 consoles, but with just 30 channel 'handles' and a ten-playback roller. Looking for one in the UK in reasonable working condition. Anyone have one they may be looking to shift from hire stock? Please get in touch!
  15. Biskit

    LED Lightsource

    Thanks for the pointers. Is this the power supply you're meaning? Searching for the term you mention brings up a confusing array of options: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/ELGC-300-H-AB?qs=w%2Fv1CP2dgqrHxp9oegnKRg%3D%3D I did actually do a very small amount of crude experimentation before I ordered the LED. I got one of those LED torches, the small round black ones with a magnet on the back, an older type with a couple of dozen small LEDs in an array of similar size to the 300W LED I have bought. I found that by placing it inside the lamphouse, just behind the gate, it was possible to project an image of the LEDs by focussing the Cantata's lenses. It was obviously very dim, being powered by just three AAA batteries, but I felt proved the point that it should work. Moving the torch just a few mm back from the gate meant the 'image' of the LED array was diffused into an even circle, which could be usefully zoomed and focussed in the conventional way. An iris also worked as expected. On this basis I concluded that a much brighter LED of similar size will hopefully yield similar results, but with useful brightness. In response to Don Allen's mention of it possibly being underpowered - I guess time will tell though as with anything I guess it depends on the application - I'm looking at relatively small-scale applications here so hopefully it'll be adequate. Heat-sink wise, I guess I just need to look at the biggest I can fit in really? Noted the point about ensuring heat can escape. Fans and holes in the casing will be necessary I think. Thanks again for the replies, and Happy Christmas to all!
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