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Which Zarges?


Amy Worrall

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Which model Zarges do I need to hang lights on a 4.5m high bar above the stage (in freestanding A-frame mode)?

 

I would like the smallest one that can do this job safely, since I'd like to be able to carry it around myself, and to transport it on the roof of my car. (Don't worry, I'd have someone with me when I was actually going up it!)

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Don't forget to allow for being able to move it around the stage whilst in the upright position. Having to lower it to get it under any fixed objects only increase the risk of accidents. So the question is...what is the clearance under your lowest fixed item?
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See this page for working heights for the different Zarges skymaster ladders.

 

https://www.zarges.com/uk/products/combination-ladders/z600-industrial-3-part-skymastertm/

Looks like you would need the 10 rung version to reach 4.5m, you would be up on the top section to do it which can be a bit twangy.

 

 

Yeah, 10 rung is OK for 4.5m if you don't mind being up past the A frame (something that seems to bother people). I like 10s because they are easy to erect and move around by myself. 12s are OK but a bit lumpy. It's OK if you are of larger build and tall enough to heft the things about. They would feel much more solid at 4.5m for those that are a bit less gung-ho up a ladder.

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Agreed on the twangy-ness and heft of a 3x12. It's what I have and while it's a fantastically stable ladder to work from, it's bulky! I'd also say to be careful of what roof it goes on. I wouldn't fancy putting mine on the roof bars on my estate for example....
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I work as an electrician and own a trade 7 rung and an industrial 12 rung. I know the highest job I routinely do using the 7 as an A frame is replacing fluorescent tubes on a 3.9m ceiling. The 12 is a beggar to shift on my own, I can just lift it on and off the top of my Zafira.

 

I agree with Rob, 10 rung much better to move on your own but 12 much less bouncy at the same heights...

 

I'm not certain the Zarges spec sheet gives useful data to answer the original question

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I'm not certain the Zarges spec sheet gives useful data to answer the original question

 

The column rather unhelpfully labelled "Length as 2-part single ladder and as stepladder with push-on section (m)" answers the question asked. Really it all boils down to whether you are happy working on the extended ladder above the A-frame, you have to be quite confident on ladders to do it. The top of a 14-rung in A-frame mode is quite an exciting place to be.

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Is that right that you would need the 3x10, as that's 4.95m length and you can add the height of the person to that to give working height?

 

The 3x8 looks to be 4.1m height freestanding, and there's a 3x9 at 4.7m as well (in the trade Z500 model rather than industrial Z600)

 

We have one 3x7 and two 3x14s and would agree the top of the 3x14 is a good height but it's still a nice wide ladder though it is a decent carry for one person.

The 3x7 is not the same ladder as the 3x14 but shorter, it's much thinner and lighter overall.

 

(Is it worth thinking about what fixtures as well - I'd be happier rigging a Par56 or an acclaim over my head compared to a Pacific or 243).

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Is that right that you would need the 3x10, as that's 4.95m length and you can add the height of the person to that to give working height?

 

You probably could reach up above the top of a shorter ladder but personally I would like some ladder remaining in front of me to hold onto...

 

 

 

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A 10 rung ladder has each section 3m long. As an A-frame, the top of the A will be at about 3m up (slightly less but not enough to worry about). Stand on the top of the A, with the extended part extended in front of you and, if you are 5 feet tall, a bar at 4.5m off the deck will be in front of your eyes.

 

An 8 rung ladder, at 2.45m per section, would mean a bit of a stretch (about 500mm) for a 5 foot tall person stood on the same location.

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Fair enough, but the 9 rung freestands taller than the bar height, so you could get the bar at shoulder height without your head going beyond the top of the freestanding ladder.

Up to personal choice though, I wouldn't want to recommend a ladder too small and if you don't like going out on the top section you might be better with the taller one.

 

Also - if you get a proper set of roof bars and ladder clamps I used to be able to fit a full 14 rung Zarges within the length of my astravan - why not buy the biggest that fits the car rather than the smallest that fits the job

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Sounds about right. We have a ten rung and 4.5m bars are easily within reach for me, but then I'm 6'2"

 

And a 14 rung is likely to be too tall for the OP as the top of the A, with the upper extension dropped, if around 4m which is likely to hit fixtures as it is moved around the stage.

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My quick Zarges guide:

 

Getting a 14 onto stage, standing it up and then moving around after is something I could occasionally do on my own during my younger days of peak fitness but takes serious technique and wouldn't want to make it a habit. (Standing it up is the killer). 3 sections together are heavy and cumbersome.

 

12s are easier as long as one is a 6ft bloke. A bit of effort, but decent technique and personal height makes it OK.

Do it a lot and you feel it the next day. 3 sections are chunky but liftable, but takes quite a bit out if you doing a lot in a day.

 

10s are a doddle for the same bloke above. And probably comfortable enough for the less tall/strong where 12s would be quite an effort.

 

BTW I never encourage students to handle Zarges alone. But in the real world, we know the practicalities of ladder life.

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I have the 3x10 rung Zarges Professional A-frame used in a room with ceiling height of 4.9m. Lighting bars are around 4.6m.

I'm 6'1", I can focus reasonably well stood on the apex and only need to go 1 or 2 rungs higher if I need to access the actual bar.

If I fully extend the top it will hit the ceiling tiles, handy to be able to extend far enough to work above the tiles whilst still being able to hold the ladder :)

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