sandall

Thanks both. I've just been looking at my email exchange with A&H after I put it in. Basically they couldn't (wouldn't?) offer anything between password-protected Admin, which was too restrictive, & (unprotected) User, which leaves everything vulnerable. I was hoping someone might have discovered an unofficial work-round. In the meantime it has been, as suggested, a case of keeping out-of-sight copies of the wanted scene. The church users are totally non-technical, & seem incapable of reading even the largest-font Dymo labels about checking they have the right scene loaded, & about powering-down before hitting the wall-switch (or alternatively not leaving the whole system powered-up all week with no ventilation).

If you are looking for an electronics project, then fine. If you just want a working comms system for the occasional show, then hiring-in a made-for-purpose system is a no-brainer ("UK" is a rather wide "location" to suggest a hire firm local to you).

An interesting read. I'd forgotten how cheap blacklight tubes are - possibly cheaper than standard 4' tubes (if you can manage to find them).

A church I'm distantly involved with has a Qu16, using 2 of the Mix busses to feed 2 separate speaker systems for mics & music. The "default" setup is saved as a Scene, which works fine for the regular operators, but from time to time a visiting knob-twiddler will manage to overwrite this default Scene, which is when I get a phone call. Does anyone know a way of locking a Scene, without also locking the channel faders? (A&H introduced Permissions in v.1.4, but they basically work as all or nothing)

I was assuming that even a new showtec would break the budget (& that DB25 outputs might put off the non-technical)

If not, it should be easy to add a demultiplexer to your dimmers, but (alarm bells ringing) if your Strand desk is feeding old Strand dimmers they probably work on 0v to -10v, rather than 0v to +10v, in which case you probably need to look for something 2nd-hand.

Interesting, I checked my A300(?) series TOA ((mains + 12V DC) & the fuse is in series with the DC socket, but it sounds that the Inkel is like your TOA circuit, so it's probably 1 or more o/p transistors gone short-circuit.

Indeed it's labelled "DC 24V", which doesn't explain why it's blowing when on mains power. No experience of this amp (& can't find anything useful online), but the DC fuse should just sit between the DC input socket & the output of the power-supply, so with no 24V connected there shouldn't be any current flowing (even if something has gone short-circuit). Does the amp work if you just remove the fuse?

Would it be worth looking out for a 2nd-hand Zero88 or similar desk for the "non-experts" to use?

Looking again, they look more like 1W or 2W, like the 100R one on the left. The position of the brown band on the toasted ones suggests a multiplier of 10. Unfortunately the Techpro PSU cct diagram doesn't give a value for the appropriate one.

If all else fails, dabbing an AA battery works just fine.

Someone here should be able to give you a definitive answer, but in the meantime - They will be quite low-value, but look like 1/4W, so maybe 10s of Ohms, & presumably acted as fuses when the supply was shorted out. Why don't you bypass them for the time being & see whether the belt-packs spring into life?

A friend of mine used to hump around a load of large CRT TVs for the local am-dram musicals, which all used an off-stage MD & band.

Sorry, crossed-wires🙁 - I was thinking of a using a digital TV system for audio show-relay, which would mean all word cues would have to marked-up about 2 words early!!!

It does to the sound op, if he/she is behind glass, especially if sharing a room with lighting.