Tomo

Some demux units have individually isolated 0 to 10V outputs. As individually-isolated outputs don't have any common reference, they'll drive either polarity when wired appropriately.

There's no class markings visible in the photos. What class of laser device is it? The higher classes of laser can cause instant blindness, and even the lower classes can cause severe eye damage with quite low exposure. A lot of 'disco' lasers are very dangerous, many of them have Class 3B or even Class 4 laser sources inside but no protection against static beams and other dangerous failure modes. The only information I can find about says that the Illumination Quantum 3D-2 was a bi-color 30mW and 60mW laser. That would make it Class 3B, and thus not suitable for general use as it can cause permanent eye damage. If you don't know what it does, you cannot use it safely! - It's not possible to assess an unknown risk. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/laser-radiation-safety-advice/laser-radiation-safety-advice

Adding anything the the front would only act as a top hat/half hat. At best it'll reduce flare - though without the flocking it'll probably make it worse! The only way to do this is a gobo. The usual suspects offer full-frame rectangular and square gobos as standard, eg https://www.goboland.com/product_info.php?cPath=1001_1755_160&products_id=141&location=Europe As the Mac 2000 Profile has zoom and indexing gobo wheels, you should be able to get something fairly close to what you need - as long as it's fairly square on, of course. If you need a significant keystoning then it's possible to calculate the keystone/trapezoid adjustment and get custom gobos made. Try the standard rectangle and square gobos in your previz software of choice and see if it's good enough.

Don't compare LED fixture wattage. It doesn't tell you anything much about brightness, unfortunately. LED technology has changed very fast, and the quality & efficiency of the optics varies considerably between products. This means that the final "lumens per Watt" (lm/W) of LED fixtures varies wildly. At home I've got some 5W LED lamps that are considerably brighter than the 8W lamps I bought a couple of years before, despite being the same manufacturer and colour temperature. There's LED spots on the market that have fewer lumens per Watt than an HPL Source Four - at 200W they'd be the dimmest thing in your venue. The published figures to look at are the lux (or lumens) in the beam. However, as Bryson mentioned, take brightness figures with a liberal helping of salt. The measured brightness of a colour mixing or variable-white fixture varies greatly depending on the chosen colour. Many manufacturers only publish brightness at the single brightest shade of "white" - and that's often not a colour you'll ever want to use. (It's often a yucky pink or green) An additive colour mixing LED that's dimmer in 3200K white is often brighter in saturated or even pale tints than the nearest-equivalent gelled tungsten. For theatrical usage I'd strongly recommend additive colour mixing LED (RGBL or better), even if you think you'll nearly always want them in "open white". Single-colour white LED will never really match each other (or anything else in the rig). The cheaper ones use rather wide 'binning' so are often very different colours, even within the same nominal batch. The "white" is usually a very high colour temp (blue-white) as that measures brighter, but you'll likely actually want something warmer like your Cantatas. Gel is getting harder to buy with longer lead times, and doesn't behave like you'd expect in front of LED. (Lee make an LED series that tries to make LED match tungsten, if you go that route) Uncalibrated colour mixing fixtures also have some 'binning' colour consistency limitations, but it's generally a smaller difference - and of course you can manually match them as needed. Calibrated colour mixing fixtures like the ETC ColorSource Spot V avoid that issue as they're matched in the factory. TL;DR: Check the lux/lumens for 'supposedly' comparable fixtures, and get real demos. Light some people, costume and painted set/cloths. Run them for quite a while, you want to see what happens once they get warm - do fans get loud or distracting, does brightness drop? Any dealer worth their salt will happily demonstrate their offerings.

All ETC DMX Gateways and (I think) all Pathway Nodes can do this. It's a simple configuration option. Probably most other brands too, though I've not used them If the GW/Node has a female XLR-5 (for DMX out) then you'll also need a male-to-male DMX cable adapter of course. Easily soldered up - and also available as a back-to-back barrel from all the usual suppliers, if you prefer.

Diodes won't work, DMX is electrically push/pull so it'd just attenuate the signal in both directions. One option could be to do some minor surgery on either the head or the wireless receiver and hard-wire the RS485 DMX transceiver chip into the correct direction - basically make it imposisble for the (eg) fixture to ever transmit. This would of course invalidate the guarantee, so...

Yes, except that gigabit hubs don't exist, and nobody makes 10/100 Base-T hubs anymore. So they're handy if it's a 100M network and you just so happen to have one knocking around.

It is practically certain that it will not appear in DMX-Workshop, as that can only display receiving devices that respond to Art-Poll packets. Unbranded "Art-Net" stuff almost never does, so cannot be discovered. On the assumption that the device is actually capable of receiving Art-DMX: Can you see the Art-Net DMX output of the FLX in DMX Workshop? If not, that's the first problem to fix. Most "unbranded" Art-Net receivers only support broadcast Art-Net 1. Try enabling 'limited broadcast' mode (send to 255.255.255.255) in your console. In that mode all devices on the local physical network will receive the packets, but you won't be able to send more than around 8 universes (sometimes less) before things start to misbehave. (This is why it's not recommended!) Art-Net universes count from 0 (often written as 0-0 or 0-0-0), but most consoles count from 1. Some consoles default to universe 1 is Art-Net universe 0 (network is console minus 1), others to console universe 1 is Art-Net 1 and Art-Net universe 0 can't be patched. I've seen a lot of cheap/unbranded "Art-Net" devices that only work when set to universe 0. Try that. As a general rule-of-thumb, devices that say they support both sACN (E1.31) and Art-Net are far more likely to work than those that only say Art-Net as they're more likely to be using the open-source libraries that actually work.

There looks to be a "DMX In" 5-pin XLR port immediately below the custom DIN thing. Very likely you can use any old DMX controller connected to that. Though be aware that it's going to be getting difficult (and more importantly, expensive) to get replacement lamps for the fixtures, so it's worth starting to save up for some replacements in a few years.

Simply swapping out tungsten lamps for "dimmable" LED lamps does not work and never will. I cannot emphasise that enough! 2-wire mains dimmable retrofit LED lamps will never* dim all the way to zero, and all brands will 'popcorn' where they turn on/off at different points. - Both limitations are mostly due to manufacturing tolerances, so the cheaper the lamp, the worse. Reverse-phase/trailing edge/IGBT dimmers generally make them behave better than the traditional SCR/triac dimmers you currently have, and may be good enough for some purposes/installations. The major modular dimming systems have reverse phase modules available, or you can rewire to fit external products like the AL Sundial mentioned above. But don't expect them to be as good as the tungsten you had before, that is only possible with DMX-controlled LED fittings or remote LED drivers like the ETC F-Drive. Eg If your existing houselight dimming is ETC Sensor racks then you can fit "PhaseAdept" or "ELV" modules - your ETC dealer can check which are suitable for your existing racks, and arrange a trial to see if they give "good enough" results. * While it can technically be done, it'd cost far more and always perform worse than the existing mid-range remote-driver LED retrofits.

A lot of discharge lamps have a little blob of metallic mercury sloshing about inside them when cold, so I don't think that's necessarily an indicator of a bad lamp. Doesn't mean the lamp is good either, so swapping the lamp is a good troubleshooting step.

The "standard bases" part is simply impossible for anything other than a PAR-style lamp. LEDs run cool, but the diodes have to stay cool or they die very quickly. That said, retrofits do exist, eg the ETC Source 4WRD that replaces the burner, lamp and reflector. Most of that is the massive heatsink, heatpipes and related gubbins to keep the diodes cool.

It's a physical microswitch in the body of the socket.

You absolutely cannot fit a filament lamp! It won't work and is likely to damage the luminaire. The proper lamp is a Philips MSR 1200 SA, which is a discharge lamp. They're still available from theatrical suppliers for around £160 inc VAT give or take. Thomann list them at £211, as you've no doubt already found. While Philips have left the lighting market, these have been spun off to Signify and were a very popular moving head lamp. I'd guess they're still manufactured, though probably not for many more years.

ColorSource Spot jr could be an option. M-size gate, RGBL (normal or deep blue option). 5700lm https://www.etcconnect.com/Products/Entertainment-Fixtures/ColorSource-Spot-jr/Features.aspx Or of course an actual Source Four Mini LED. E-size gate.